On request
from Cornwall Food & Drink, an organisation supporting local small-scale
producers, I gathered with up-and-coming chefs from London and Cornwall’s local
fishermen to demonstrate Ikejime (a type of fish preserving method) technique.
Padstow, a
humble town the event took place in, is known for its fish and beautiful
scenery, and despite having to pass by on few occasions previously, I hadn’t
had a chance to actually visit and I was thrilled for this opportunity.
Got home
from work at almost 2am on Saturday night, took a brief nap before heading out
to pick up a car around 8am. By the time I arrived at Padstow, it was past
3.30pm and the partakers had already assembled and gone to see a lobster
hatchery. I immediately began preparation at the site’s restaurant for the
demonstration commencing at 4.00pm. After a commemorative photo shoot, I
showcased the ikejime technique on live turbot I brought from London.
During the
debate session took place after the demonstration, the participants, who create
distribution lines in cooperation with fishermen, earnestly discussed possible
breakthroughs on how to bring fish back fresh from the shore, additionally and
more importantly, how to deliver as fresh to London outlets. Many fish boats
here lack fish-preserving tanks (unlike the ones in Japan) and expertise in
transporting live fish is almost non-existence; obstacles keep on piling yet I
trust that one by one they will be solved, more so when the fishermen will
return to the shore frequently in spring.
The plan to
visit a butcher and organic farmhouse the next morning sadly had to be
cancelled due to my imperfect condition. Rested up until noon before heading
out to Dylan’s house in Helston. We had already scheduled to go on Dylan’s dad
Chris’ boat the next day. The misfortune in timings had not permitted Chris and
I to go fishing together yet, despite numberless times Dylan had taken me
aboard onto several different boats. It was like one of my dearest dream coming
true.
On arrival
that night, I was welcomed by exceptional quality spider crabs, prepared and
steamed by Dylan himself in his atelier. Once I started on the crabs, I could
not refrain myself from chowing down, and while Dylan’s wife Mutsuko prepared
salad and other accompaniments, I tucked in 2 whole crabs in no time. Spider crab
has a distinctive flavour that varies from one to another, and those seen in
restaurants’ fish tanks, often lined up by the Mediterranean coast, are far
from edible. Being judged and selected by professional eyes like Dylan’s, the
crabs were undoubtedly as rich or even richer in “Kanimiso” (crab innards) than
those from Japan, and an extra robust wildness hinted in the meat.
I was up and
about by 4.00am the next morning and ready to board Lady Hamilton. The bay
where the boat is moored does not offer any port facilities, and all equipment
first needs to be loaded onto small boat in order to be transferred onto Lady
Hamilton, anchored on the shore. Considering the amount of fishing tools, ices,
and also captured fish if on the way back, I salute the crew endure the routine
every single day.
First, we
pulled up the gill net that was set in shoal the night before; only crabs and a
few unimpressive numbers of fish had been caught, along with tons of jellyfish
that interfere with fishing. According to Chris, jellyfish was not to be found
locally before, however similarly to the situation in the coast of the Japan
Sea in recent years, upsurge occurred mysteriously. “Could it be related to
global warming?”; such thought crossed my mind.
After
re-setting the net back into the shoal, we headed to haul the net at a deeper
point. The result was indifferently disappointing and only caught a countable
number of pollack, haddock, etc. This spot, too, had jellyfish hindering.
Upon
returning to the point in the shoal, we once again hauled the net that had been
set for about 3 hours. Unexpected from the earlier result, the net was filled
with a plenty of fish this time, and diversely coloured fish, such as pollack,
haddock, cod, lemon sole, red mullet, streaked gurnard and john dory, have
filled the captivity tank. Chris was simply delighted for the fortunate turn of
event; that significantly contradictory
result could occur just after 3 hours of laying the net, from the exact point
where the overnight set miserably failed previously. However what amazed me
more was his nonetheless positive and firm attitude to re-set the net in that
precise location, by believing the possible positive outcome based on tide
movement as well as calculated time flame and his instinct coming from years of
experience. I encounter similar events while I’m out fishing for my hobby, and
I reckon having the ability to read and predict the vast nature can equal to
the very primary joy of fishing, yet only experience can bring such skill.
Experience,
knowledge, and luck that can change the game completely in one turn; for all of
these dynamics, fishing can continue to entertain.
I send my
heartfelt gratitude to the friendly crews of Chris’ and the family who always
gives me warmest welcome.
Cornwall の小生産者を支援している団体、Cornwall Food & Drinkからの依頼があり、ロンドンの若手有名シェフと地元の漁師を集めて活けジメのデモンストレーションをしてきました。
土曜日に仕事から帰宅したのが夜中の2時前、仮眠をとって8時に車をピックアップに行ったのち、Padstowに到着したのは既に3時半になっており、参加者は皆、既に集合してロブスターハッチェリーの見学に行った後でした。4時からデモンストレーションと聞いていたのでそのまま会場のレストランで用意にかかり、港での記念撮影の後、ロンドンから生かして持ってきたTurbot(石ヒラメ) を使って活けジメのデモンストレーションをしました。
デモの後のディスカッションの時、漁師と流通を作るメンバーの間で“漁の後、いかにしたら魚を生きたまま港に持って帰れるか、またはロンドンまで運べるか”ということを真剣に考えてくれました。日本と違って船にもともと生簀が無いこと、輸送のノウハウが無いことなど、課題は多くありますが、春になって海に頻繁に出られるようになったとき、少しずつでも試していってもらうことに期待し、常に連絡を取り合うことを約束しました。翌日は近郊にある有機農家と精肉業者を訪ねる予定でしたが、朝起きた時、調子が今一つで私は昼まで休み、HelstonのDylanの家に行きました。翌日にはDylanのお父さん、 Chrisのボートに乗せてもらうことに決まっていました。今まで幾多のボートに乗せてもらっていてもいつもタイミングが悪く、Chrisとは今回が初めてで、やっと念願が叶いました。
着いたその日にはDylanが工房で蒸したてのスパイダークラブの雄の飛び切りのものを用意しておいてくれました。奥様のMutsukoさんがサラダなどを用意してくれている間、たまらずカニにむしゃぶりついたらあとは止まることを知らず、大きなカニを２杯平らげました。スパイダークラブの味は非常に個体差があり、特に水槽に入ったものをよく地中海沿岸の観光地のレストランで見るものは食べられたものではありません。Dylan家のようなプロフェッショナルに選んでもらったものの、たっぷり入ったカニみそは日本産のどのカニのものよりも美味しく、野性味のある身も非常に地味深いものです。
翌日は朝４時に起き、Lady Hamilton に乗りました。Lady
Hamiltonが停泊している入江に港は無く、すべての荷物をまずは小型ボートに乗せて沖に停泊させているボートに積みなおさな
前日の夜に浅場（６０ｍ前後）に仕掛けておいてくれた刺し網をまず引き上げましたがあまり思わしい収穫はなく、カニと少しの魚だけでした。それにも増して、多くのクラゲが入っており、漁の手を邪魔します。Chris曰く、以前は全く見られなかったということで、その大量発生は日本海沿岸の定置網でも近年起こっていることなのでとても不思議なことです。世界的な温暖化のせいでしょうか。
その後、浅場の網を打ち直した後、深場(８０ｍ前後)に仕掛けた網を上げましたが、やはりそれほどの収穫はなく、Pollack(タラの仲間),
haddock（スケトウダラ）などがぱらぱらと獲れただけでした。またも多くのクラゲに邪魔されます。
元の浅場のポイントに戻り、３時間ほど前に入れた網を再び上げると今度はたくさんの魚が上がってきました。Pollack, Haddock, Cod(タラ), Lemon sole(カレイの仲間), Red
mullet(ひめじ), Streaked gurnard(ホウボウ), John dory(マトウダイ)、大きなサバなど、色とりどりの魚でボックスはいっぱいになりました。一夜仕掛けていた網にほとんど入っていなかったのに同じポイントでもほんの３時間でいっぱいの魚が入ったことにChrisも本当に喜んでいましたが、その可能性を潮の流れや時間で読み取って的確に再度網を仕掛けた彼の経験と勘には驚かされました。そういったことは私の趣味の釣りでも良くあることで、自然を読み解くことそのものが釣りの楽しさであると同時に経験が全てです。経験、知識、そしてそれ以上の運に左右される、だから面白いのが釣り、漁です。
Chrisのボートに乗った優しいクルー達、いつも温かく迎えてくれる家族の皆様、いつも心から感謝しています！
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