There
are not many feelings like driving through the countryside of Cornwall already
full of ambience in autumn. Accompanied by beautiful weather, it was so
invigorating that I could feel all my stress lifted off my shoulder. Moreover,
I felt refreshed being welcomed by lovely smiles of Dylan and Mutsuko, even
though it was already past sunset when I arrived at their home. They took me to
a gastro pub nearby, which was situated in a small seaside village surrounded
by narrow roads where cars can barely pass each other. I was astonished by its
prosperity despite its location and also their sophisticated and high quality
foods were divine surprise. I was deeply intrigued by the conversation we had
about recent fishing situation and Celtic ethnicity over the dinner.
Woke
up at 4am next morning and went fishing on a boat belong to Mr Anthony Hosking,
a Dylan’s cousin, carrying with me Mutsuko’s handmade rice balls with home-made
pickled plum filling. The catch was rather disappointing than what we had hoped
for, due difficulty caused by gill nets being tangled with algae. Nonetheless,
I was delighted to see fish caught in the 3 types of nets, very rich in
variety. On the way back, I asked Anthony for his impression on the outcome of
the particular catch in comparison to those on usual days, and he summed up to
one word: “Rubbish!” Considering the hours and energy he puts in and also the expense
of fuel, it was simply not good enough for him.
After
we got back on the land, I watched other ships being unloaded at Dylan’s house
before made my way to a hotel. I was a little reluctant to leave, been having
such delightful time. Next morning, I headed to St. Ives to collect the
ceramics from Leach pottery, which Midori had had them kiln-baked before she
went back to Japan for her own exhibition. Mr & Mrs Akira Yagi, a ceramist
from Kyoto, were coincidently visiting as well, and I was unexpectedly given
the opportunity to hear recent news of fellow chefs back in Kyoto. The finished
ceramics made me reflect on not having to spend more time to perfect them,
which made my tasks and targets in the future clearer.
Dylan
and Mutsuko who arranged accommodation and introduced me to fishermen, Anthony
and his crew Darren who kindly and patiently took
very inexperienced person like me on the boat with them, Ms Midori who accepted
my unreasonable request and actually completing them in limited time, and also
a grandpa who entertained me at motorway service area with folktale of Celtic
nations: this trip like any other, I cannot end without thanking all the people
who helped making it very special.
素晴らしい天気の中、既に秋の色濃いコーンウォールの田舎町を車で走るととても気持ちが良く、ストレスもすっかり忘れ、魚屋のDylanとMutsukoさんの家に着くころには日が暮れかけていましたが、笑顔で迎えられるととてもすがすがしい気持ちになれました。すぐに近くのガストロパブに連れて行ってくれ、車が２台すれ違うのがやっとといったような海沿いの田舎町にありながら席もとれないような大繁盛ぶりにびっくりさせられました。とても洗練された料理を堪能しました。最近の漁のこと、コーンウォールのケルト民族のことなど、興味深い話ができて充実したひと時でした。
翌朝は４時起きでDylanのいとこ、Anthonyさんのボート、“Lucy
Marianna”でMutsukoさんの心のこもった自家製梅干し入りのおむすびを携え、漁に出かけました。大潮後で藻が刺し網に絡みつき、思うような漁には恵まれなかったものの、多種多様な魚が３種類の網にかかってきて私は大興奮でした。帰りにAnthony に“今日の漁はいつもと比べると？”ときくと“Rubbish!“のひとこと。丸一日の労働と高価な燃料代などを考えると貧果であったようです。
Dylanの家で他の船の水揚げなどを見た後、心惜しみながらホテルに向かい、翌朝、St.IvesのLeach工房で食器を受け取りました。丁度京都から陶芸家の八木明ご夫妻がいらしており、思わぬところで京都の料理仲間の話題に花が咲きました。焼き上げられた食器は私が勢いで作ってしまったことを深く反省させられ、これからの課題を実感させられました。
一夜の宿と漁師の手配をしてくださったDylanご夫妻、役立たずな船員を一日船に載せてくれたAnthonyと船員のDarren、かなり無理のあるお願いにもかかわらず陶器を焼き上げてくださったみどりさん、途中のパーキングエリアでコーヒーを飲みながら昔のケルト民族の話をしてくれたおじいちゃん、今回も多くの人たちに感謝を感じた旅でした。
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