White Truffle ホワイトトリュフ

The time of the year for white truffle to be at its peak and enjoyable to its full potential is here again.

A few of the culinary delights have arrived from a pedlar in Alba, Italy, and it only takes a couple to fill the restaurant with rich, unique aroma.

Served with Scottish lobster, Mediterranean fatty tuna or Australian wagyu beef, the combinations may be considered slightly conventional but the feedbacks from guests could not be better so far.

This heavenly season of white truffle comes and goes in a blink but let’s not forget the arrival of black truffle that follows. 

今年もホワイトトリュフを本格的に使う季節となりました。

ItaliaのAlbaの行商人から届くトリュフは数個お店にあるだけで客席中がトリュフの香でいっぱいになります。

スコットランドのロブスター、地中海のとろ、オーストラリアの和牛など、どれもオーソドックスなものとの組み合わせですが、とても好評を頂いています。

ホワイトトリュフのいい時期はあっという間に過ぎ去ってしまいますが、その後に続く黒トリュフもとても楽しみです。

From Bizen,備前から

The tableware I ordered last year has arrived from Mr So Isezaki, a ceramic artist based in Bizen.

Bizen-ware (Bizen yaki) is one of my most favourite types of traditional Japanese pottery – or it may be THE most favourite – and a monthly visit to the city of its origin used to be my routine while I was living in Kyoto. Out of the ambition to create my own, I began searching for a ceramist who would open-mindedly help me with kilning, and after 3 years of exhausting search, I finally came across with an artist I could feel connected to: It was late Mr Mitsuru Isezaki.

 The instant bonding began when I knocked on the door of a straw-thatched atelier of his by a strem after sympathizing with his desperate desire to preserve the nature around the stream, which was expressed on a handmade sign outside his workshop. Through my frequent visits, we became more understanding of each other, and also by sharing numbers of same interests and hobbies with his son, Mr So, the visit soon became my habitude.

Last year, I gave him a call after a long silence, hoping to ask him a favour to participate in creating new tableware for Umu, and it was only then that I learned he had passed away. I cannot begin to explain how much I regret for not getting in touch with him sooner. I still recall his smile when he stopped his hands from work to have a chat with me.

As for the tableware I requested, Mr So kindly offered to create them himself. The series of ceramics mainly comprises rectangular shaped plates for my taste (called Ita-zara/Manaita-zara in Japanese), and they have been finished kiln-baked in small batches since I ordered last year. When I received the ceramics, I was overwhelmed with its astonishing finish and the sentimentality I felt for Bizen. I already enjoy using them for our main dishes and I find joy in decorating them into a presentation of authentic Japanese culinary. 

Recently, Mr Ishida, a ceramic artist who also based in Bizen and I have been introduced by Mr So, came all the way to my flat to lecture me how to handle Rokuro (a pottery wheel). After many hours of training, I gained the knowledge which cannot be grasped by self-learning, and moreover I was enchanted by peeping into the insight of the wider field of ceramic art.

 

 備前から

備前の陶芸家、伊勢崎創さんから去年注文した皿が届きました。

備前焼は日本の伝統ある陶器の町の中でも最もと言っていいぐらい私が好きな焼き物で、京都で暮らしていたきは毎月のように車で通いました。自分で作ってみたいという思いから陶芸家を探していた時、3年ほどかかってやっと気持ちが通じたのが創さんのお父さんである故伊勢崎満さんでした。小川沿いにある、藁ぶき屋根の工房の戸口に“川の自然を守りたい”という思いがつづられた色紙がかかっており、それに共感してお話を伺ったのがきっかけでした。それからお宅に通ううちに、一緒に陶芸をされていた息子さん達とも釣りの話などで盛り上がり、いつも伺うのが楽しみでした。

昨年、ＵＭＵで使う食器を依頼するために久しぶりのお電話をしたときに満さんの訃報を聞き、しばらく連絡をしていなかったことが悔やまれました。土を触る手を休めてお話をされるときの優しい笑顔が偲ばれます。

食器は代わりに創さんが作ってくださるとのことで、ＵＭＵに合わせた私の好みの板皿と俎板皿を去年お願いしてから、幾度かの窯焚きに分けて焼いてくださいました。手元に届いたときはその素晴らしい出来栄えと、備前への懐かしさとで嬉しい限りでした。すでにＵＭＵでもメインになる皿を盛る時に第一線で楽しみながら使っています。

昨日、創さんからのご紹介で同じ備前の陶芸家の石田君が轆轤を教えに私のフラットに来てくれました。数時間にわたる特訓により、今まで独学のみで不思議に思っていたことなどが理解できるようになっただけでなく、陶芸にまつわる多くの話が聞くことができ、楽しい時間が過ごせました。

Petit renewal プチリニューアル

In September, Umu reached the 8^th anniversary and has undergone few refurbishments for renewal.  

The distribution system to receive fish, which is preserved in the special method I mentioned here before, finally started to operate smoothly. The stabilization of fresh fish supply, and also better understanding in great food resources of Europe, resulted in significant changes to our menu. Our a la carte menu, which had been firmly fixed throughout a year unlike the Kaiseki tasting menu, became more reflected on daily market availability to include fresher, more seasonal fish. The presentation of menu itself has changed in its style to imitate Japanese scroll, and I personally prepared the background with watercolour painting. I was also aiming to replace the series of tableware completely to comprise only my own ceramics, the ones made by a familiar artist upon my request or organic British slates, however, as suspected, my amateurish creation did not go according to the plan and we started off with a limited selection.  

Removing black cod – one of the most popular dishes – from the menu, and instead concentrated on the ingredients by being particular about their origins and quality, I could say we have created the menu most suitable for the character of Umu.

 

  

9月に入り、オープンしてから6年が経つＵＭＵでは幾つかのリニューアルがされました。

ようやく活けじめの魚が漁師からコンスタントに直接届くシステムを軌道に乗せることが出来たことと、欧州の素晴らしい食材の事情が分かったことからメニューを大幅に刷新しました。懐石のコースメニュー以外はほぼ固定だったメニューを、より市場を反映したものにし、その日に漁で獲れたもの、より季節を反映させたものを日替わりで載せられるようにしました。そのメニューの台紙も日本の“巻紙”をイメージし、下絵を水彩画でしたためました。

食器も9月からほとんどの食器を自作のもの、知り合いの作陶家に依頼したもの、英国の自然からできるスレートなどのもので揃えたかったのですが、素人の私の作陶がそれほど思うように行くわけもなく、ごく限られたものからのスタートとなりました。

今までベストセラーの一つであった銀ダラなどをあえてメニューから外し、より地元で取れた最高の食材にこだわった、ＵＭＵらしいメニューになったと思います。

 

London 2012 ロンドンオリンピック

As the city got excited and enthusiastic for London 2012 and prepared for chaos that might be brought together with this global festival, Umu also got ready by planning ahead meticulously, adjusting menus and securing ingredients. Nonetheless, contrary to everyone’s expectation, the city became deserted as the games had begun and its severeness was even widely broadcasted. 

As much as we appreciated visits from the event’s contributors and athletes and they sure did put us in better mood at the restaurant, we also firmly persisted on keeping our style/motto which is to value every single guest on daily basis, by not excessively attending special events. In other words, we are having our usual summer here.

 Meanwhile, Ms. Midori Endo, a ceramic artist of Bernard Leach Pottery who I have mentioned few times in this blog, kindly made time out of her busy schedule to help firing my creation of ceramics so I had a quick, brief day trip to St. Ives in very limited time. I cannot thank her enough fro finishing up to the very last touch of my ceramic works in significantly short period of time, even though all the while, she had preparation for her own exhibition at Takashimaya, Nihonbashi (renowned department store in Tokyo) as well as her duties in working with Mr. Jack Doherty, a chief potter at Leach Pottery. Moreover, she generously delivered back part of the finished ceramics all the way to London in person, just a day before her flight back to Japan.

 Also I found some time fro myself to photograph new ideas of food presentations on newly made dishes, together with some of Ms. Midori’s works I have borrowed. This was my first attempt to use soda-fired potteries, a speciality method of Ms. Midori/Leach pottery, for purpose of food arrangement. Regardless to slight struggle in combining foods and the unique ceramics into beautiful unison, I had very blissful time.  

While the world is experiencing the fever and excitement of the Olympic game, at Umu we are experiencing rather typical relaxing summer ‘12.　　 

大混雑が予想され、ロンドン中が大騒ぎになっていたオリンピック開始前、当店でもスケジュールやメニューの調整、材料の確保に追われましたが、始まってみると予想に反して街の中心はゴーストタウン化してしまったことは報道でも大きく取り上げられていました。 

  
ＵＭＵにも多くの関係者や選手の方がいらっしゃり、ムードは高まっていましたが、日常を崩さず、お店に来られるお客様を大切にするというスタンスは変えまいと特別なイベントには基本的には参加しませんでしたので結果的には普段の夏とあまり変わらないといった感じです。

さんの手伝いが控えていながら、ほとんど寝る間も無く短期間で全てをこなしてくださり、感謝感激です！日本に帰られる前の日に、わざわざロンドンまで完成品の一部を届けてくれました。そんな中、バーナード．リーチ工房で活動されている遠藤みどりさんが私の形作った食器の焼成を忙しい合間を縫ってやってくださることとなり、ほとんど日帰り状態でセントアイビスを往復してきました。みどりさんは日本橋高島屋での自らの個展と主任陶芸家であるJack Doherty

みどりさんの作品も一部お借りし、時間を見つけて料理を盛り付けて写真の撮影もしました。リーチ工房、みどりさんの用いる特殊な技法である“ソーダ釉”の独特な風合いは今まで料理では使ったことが無かったので写真撮りも少々苦労しましたが楽しい時間でした。

世界がオリンピックで沸く中、ＵＭＵはいつもと変わらない夏です。

Mersea Island festival Mersea島フィスティバル

I was very honoured when I had been invited to be a presenter for the very first festival of Mersea island in Colchester district, so I tagged along sous-chef Neves, his loving wife and a cheeky son, and together we headed to the Northern region of Dover by peaceful train ride.

The site located in a winery field, the festival welcomed significant number of visitors despite unfortunate weather. Other than our presentation booth, entertainments included specially food of the island such as oysters, fish and honey, folk crafts sale and an open-air concert, which together achieved great success.

As a presentation, I performed the fish preserving technique at our booth upon request from local fishmonger, the same skill I had mentioned in my “Revolution of Fish & Chips” project. I was very moved by the great turn-ups of local fishermen and anglers who eagerly observed and became very keen on practicing it themselves. Neves prepared sea bass sashimi while thoughtfully explaining the process, the outcome was heartwarming as many happily queued up to have a taste.

After the event, Darcy from “Colchester Oyster” fishery who was also the main host of the festival gave us a quick tour around the isle by a car. It was my first time to see the Eastern side of the Great Britain, never-ending scenery of the shallow sea and a prairie was breathe-taking. If only the weather was nicer….. It’d have been a perfect day.  

ロンドンから電車に揺られ、ドーバー海峡の北に向かって45分、Colchester市にあるMersea島で、島を挙げての初めてのお祭りにプレゼンテーターとして招かれ、副料理長のNevesとその愛妻、お茶目な息子と共に行ってきました。

ワイン農家の敷地を会場としており、あいにくの寒さと曇りの中でもたくさんの来場者に恵まれました。私達のプレゼン会場のほかに、島特産の牡蠣、魚、蜂蜜などの食べ物や、地域の民芸品などが売られたほか、野外コンサートも開かれて、盛り上がっていました。

プレゼンでは地元の魚屋の要望で私が最近始めた“Revolution of Fish & chips” の本題である“活けジメ（神経〆）”を解説しました。地元の手釣り漁師も多く集まり、非常に興味を持って“自分たちもやりたい！”と口々に言ってくれたのは本当に嬉しかったです。Nevesの優しい解説と共に造られたスズキのお刺身を多くの人が並びながら喜んで味見してくれたのも微笑ましい光景でした。

イベントの後、主催者である“Colchester Oyster”のDarcyが島全体を車で案内してくれました。私もブリテン島の西側を見るのは初めてで、遠浅の海と草原とが果てしなく続く景色はとてもきれいでした。あれで天気さえ良かったのなら。。。最高の一日でした。

Chef`s Journey through British fishery in Cornwall Vol.4 活けジメを伝えにCornwallへ小旅行その4

(Day 5)

From the early morning, I was once again out on the shore on a boat owned by “P.J” Godfrey, specializing in gill net fishing. Contrary to the day before, the weather was awfully stormy, but the boat just made it way straight to the inshore fishery despite its surprisingly not so modern equipments. Haddock and dogfish were caught in the net which had been set during the night before, unfortunately my target monkfish was nowhere to be seen. 

Back in the Bullus' office, I prepared sashimi out of haddock, mackerel and sole upon request from Naomi’s sister, Emma. Their father Geoff, the chairman of the company, was not very keen on eating raw fish at first, however he seemed to enjoy more than anyone once he tried it, which gave me great pleasure.  

During this trip, I have met more people than I expected who have a similar passion to me and enjoyed uncountable discussions with them about providing quality fish to restaurants. However, by going out with the fisherman and fishing myself I can see how hard it is to consistently use my style and methods.  In time though, with practice and understanding, I do think we can spread the fish preserving method widely enough to actually make an impact. If more fishermen can appreciate the pride in providing the freshest fish to restaurants and diners realize how much better proper fresh fish tastes then it will be worth it.

I really enjoyed this trip, surrounded by beautiful nature and meeting the beautiful people of Cornwall! 

5日目は朝から船長“P.J” Godfrey の操る刺し網専門の中型船に乗せてもらいました。昨日と打って変わって大荒れの天気でしたがその中を決して最新型とは言えないボートは漁場へと向かいました。夜中に仕掛けた網には主にHaddock やDogfish(ﾈｺｻﾞﾒ)がかかり、お目当てのMonk fish（アンコウ）はかかりませんでした。帰りの船の中で＊が魚の処理をする際に改めて活けジメの方法を伝えました。刺身に向くような魚は獲れませんでしたが、それでも始めてのやり方には興味深々のようでした。

事務所に戻ってから、Naomiさんの姉妹である Emmaからのリクエストで釣ってきたHaddock, Mackerel, Soleを刺身にしました。Naomiさんのお父さんであり、会社社長であるGeoffは“生の魚なんていらん！”と言っていたのが一口食べるなりやみつきになったのか皿を抱えるようにして喜んで食べてくれたのは感動的でした！

今回の旅を通じ、多くの釣り人と話しをし、実際に漁を体験してみると、活けジメを普及させるためにはまだまだ多くの課題があることを気付かされると同時に、上手く解決すれば多くの可能性も秘めていると感じることが出来ました。漁師が今まで以上に自分で釣った魚に対する意識を高めていき、何より消費者であるシェフや魚屋が活けジメの魚の有効性を並行して考えることが出来れば、最高の魚が市場に並ぶ日がやってくるように思います。

　素晴らしい大自然と、素晴らしい人々に会うことができ、充実した旅でした。

Chef`s Journey through British fishery in Cornwall Vol.3 活けジメを伝えにCornwallへ小旅行その3

Day 3
After arriving in St Ives late the night before, my plan for the day was to visit the Bernard Leach pottery. I was also joined by a journalist who came all the way from London expressly to cover my activity. I re-visited Ms. Midori, a Japanese ceramist in the renowned atelier, who will be playing a significant role in my ceramic project in the near future. At a lovely hotel-detached restaurant over a hill close by, we had lunch as she shared her interesting and eye-opening insights into the world of ceramic art.


Day 4
By the time the Sun was up, I was already out  mackerel fishing on a boat, thanks to a local fishmonger Ms. Naomi Bullus' kind help in making the arrangement with a fisherman, Boy Jon Stevens. Beautiful weather and the fact that 10kg worth of mackerel had already been caught in the morning round were boosting my expectation, and it did in fact turnout to be an awesome day. The method used in mackerel fishing here is similar to the one adopted in Japan.  The devise uses about 20 strings with bird feathers attached to them, which allows a few dozen mackerel to be caught per stream. The speed and efficiency of fishermen performing each step of the routine was very impressive. I had a go and needless to say, my performance was not comparable to theirs! I promptly demonstrated the same preserving technique on fish we had just caught right there on the boat while the fishermen carefully and eagerly observed. They were impressively quick in getting the hang of it and I couldn’t help but already look forward to the fresher fish we would be receiving from them, back in London.

In the evening, Naomi invited me to join her family and friends for dinner and we headed to the restaurant directly opposite to St. Michael's Mt in Marazion. In the secluded atmosphere of the country, I sincerely enjoyed amazing food and the great company.




三日目。昨晩遅くにSt Ivesに着きました。今日はロンドンからわざわざ私の活動を取材に来てくれたジャーナリストと共に、Bernard Leach Potteryを訪れました。そこで働く陶芸家のMidoriさんと3人で陶芸の話しをしながら、海の見える小高い陸の上にあるホテルレストランで食事をしました。Midoriさんは今後私がしている陶磁器製作のキーパーソンとなり、いろいろとためになる話を聞くことが出来ました。

四日目、既に日が昇った時間からの出航で魚屋のNaomiさんが手配をしてくれたBoyJon Stevensの操るサバの手釣り漁にジャーナリストと共に行きました。Boyjonは朝の漁で既に10kgのサバを釣り上げたとのこと、満々の期待と素晴らしい天気にも恵まれ、最高の一日でした。日本でも使われる鳥の羽のついた20本ほどの釣り針の仕掛けでひと流しごとに数十匹のサバが釣れてきます。手返しの早さはさすがにプロで、私も釣り人根性でやらせてもらいましたが、彼らには到底及びません。 

　釣れた魚をその場で活けジメをして見せましたが、彼も非常に熱心にやり方を見てくれ、何匹かやるうちにコツもつかんだようで今後の魚が楽しみです。

夜にはNaomiさんの家族と、その友人も合流し、MarazionのSt Michael’s Mt真向かいにあるレストランで夕食に招待していただきました。田舎町にありながら、素晴らしい料理で、暖かいBullus家の方々との楽しい会話と共にとても楽しむことが出来ました。