Elvers(Glass eel)fishing Gloucester シラス鰻漁

London opened up an another opportunity for me and allowed me to get to know Mr. Dai, a chief of smoked goods merchant (i.e. salmon, eel, etc.) and also a supervisory figure among a group of fishermen specialising in elver fishing – a type of young eel I had been searching for quite some time to acquire.  I made a detour on my way home from Cornwall and stayed in Ross-on-Wye, a small but deeply historical town located on River Wye in Herefordshire. During daytime, I have enjoyed fishing Atlantic salmon and trout at beats of River Wye owned by Mr. Dai, while experiencing and observing Britain’s traditional elver fishing at night before its season comes to an end.     

Mr. Dai’s facility attracts significant number of licensed fishermen to bring in captured elvers one after another throughout the night, which then will be temporarily gathered in a large-scale vessel designed for its exclusive use. Eel is already aged two by the time it finishes travelling a river upstream, nonetheless it will not have fed on bait and survives the long journey by obtaining sufficient energy from nutrition stored in its stomach since it was a larva. The captured elvers are, then, accustomed to be fed cod roe within the vessel  before being transferred to farming facilities located all over Europe.

When I arrived at the fishing spot, I was truly surprised by how classic the fishing method employed was. A net with approximate length of 30 inch (the biggest size allowed by the regulation) is laid at ankle high to simply scoop up the elvers pushed to the shore by waves triggered by changes in a tide, which occur twice daily at morning and night. The net is constructed based on profound consideration, and all equipment used, including a structure of wooden frame for a net designed to safely hold captured elvers, are handmade by each fisherman.

Elver fishing in Japan, where single glass eel is now priced at markets for almost £3, is facing endanger due to uprooting of all elvers caused off the shore by an use of a huge-scaled four-armed scoop net. While being shocked by the old-fashioned technique still used at fishing site in the Britain, I realized the obvious advantage and its necessity in order to preserve the nature.

When a question popped out from a fisherman regarding to my culinary experience with elvers, my answer was a poor one, only having to have few back in Japan, also at very high rate. After hearing the story of my lack of opportunity despite constant search for elvers at various locations, such as Spain, he began heating up a pan over an open-fire. Bacon and its lard would be the first choice, but instead we fried hand-carried sausages as substitution and used melted grease as cooking oil. I expected to try only a bite considering its high value, nonetheless he generously poured everything we had caught during 4 hours worth of fishing since sunset into the heated pan. A lightly sautéed delicacy, possibly priced more than few thousands Euro at fine dining restaurants, carried a unique month-feel within its complex flavor. For the unexpected and extremely privileged experience I was given, I want to say thanks again to Mr. Dai and all other fishermen.

Additionally I was filled by a sense of satisfaction for being able to land an Atlantic salmon for the first time in my personal fishing life. Again, I would like to thank everyone I had met during this amazing trip.

以前から私が探し続けていたElvers,シラス鰻漁をしている漁師の取りまとめ役であり、サーモンや鰻などの燻製を作っている業者の親分であるDai氏とロンドンで知り合い、Cornwallからの帰る途中、Ross on WyeというWye川沿いにある歴史的街に滞在し、日中はDai氏の所有するWye川のビートでアトランティックサーモンや鱒釣り、夜中にシーズン終了間直の英国の伝統的なElversフィッシングを見に行きました。

彼の所有する施設にはライセンスを持った釣り人が夜通しに獲ったElversを持ち込み、専用の大型タンクに一時的に入れられます。川を昇ってきた時点で鰻は2歳だそうですが、まだ一度も餌を口にしたことがなく、卵から得た、お腹にためた栄養だけで長い航海をするそうです。タンクの中でしばらく慣らされた後、Cod Roe(鱈の卵)を餌として与えられ、餌付けされた後、ヨーロッパ中にある養殖施設に送られるとのことでした。

釣り場に行くと、そのあまりにも古典的な漁の方法に驚かされました。約８０センチ（規則により、使用できる最大の大きさ）ほどの網を足元に仕掛け、満ち潮、引き潮、夜中に二回やってくる潮位の差によって出来る流れで岸沿いに押しやられて昇ってゆくElversを掬い取ると言う単純な仕組みです。その網も考え尽くされた構造で、獲った稚魚を保存する網を張った木枠も含め、すべて釣り人個人の手作りによるものだそうです。

現在は稚魚一匹の値段が400円あまりするという危機的な状況になってしまった日本のシラス鰻漁は十数メートルの四手網を使うことで根こそぎ獲ってしまうことが原因であることは明らかで、このような英国のやり方は驚く一方で自然を守るために不可欠であることだと改めて感じさせられました。

釣り人と話している最中に、私がElversを食べた経験を尋ねられると、“日本でごく僅か、10匹ほどで数千円で”という答えしか出来ませんでした。その後もスペインなどで機会を伺っていましたが、なかなかチャンスが無かったというと、それならと言うことで傍の焚き火にフライパンをかざしました。本当ならベーコンがいいものの、手持ちが無いのでソーセージを焼いて脂を出し、その脂で焼くようです。貴重なものなのでほんの一口と思っていたところ、日の入りから約4時間かけて二人で獲った収穫分全て、フライパン一杯に入れてしまった大盤振る舞いには驚きました。“高級レストランで食べたら数千ユーロ？”という非常に繊細な味わいの中、微妙に火を通した口ざわりは非常に珍味でした。思わぬ体験をさせてもらったことにDaiさん、釣り人たちに改めて感謝です。

趣味の釣りの方でも人生初めてのアトランティックサーモンを釣り上げることができ、大満足。多くの人々に感謝感謝の旅でした。

 

Cuttlefish fishing in Cornwall紋甲烏賊漁、早春のCornwall

For a brief period of 2-3 weeks, cuttlefish comes to the coast of Cornwall during its spawning season. Cuttlefish, in comparison to other members of class Cephalopod such as squid, has never been favoured in Great Britain, thus has neither been particularly cherished at markets. The fact that cuttlefish, if in its freshest condition, carries extreme sweetness and great texture, very pleasant on tongues, is often overlooked.

At Umu, we began receiving cuttlefish caught by fishermen of Cornwall, with which also an invitation to come and experience the fishing first-handedly. As updating and reassuring continuous practise of special fish preserving skill was too on my to-do list, I decided to visit Cornwall once again, only this time was in early spring.

Bright yellow colour of fields of tender-stem broccoli and deep green of fresh verdure, Cornwall in this gorgeous season of prosper was surrounded by colourful wild flowers and botanicals blooming in profusion. Only weather was being its usual imperfect self.

A technique used for cuttlefish fishing involves sets of trap – a cage one female cuttlefish is pre-captivated in before being laid down – into which attracted group of cuttlefish is lured towards. Unfortunately the trap on this particular day failed to capture any cuttlefish, leading us to practice gill net fishing instead. The final number of cuttlefish captured at the end of the day was, however, more than enough to completely cover us in its ink during performing removal of guts right there on the boat.

Additional entertainment I was privileged to come across was insightful tales told by the captain of the boat called Mario, a born and raised fisherman from Galapagos.

The next day, I took up the duty of preparing dinner to help Dylan and his wife Mutsuko who busied themselves for their pop up store at the farmers market. Using fish that had been freshly landed off the boat and vegetables I’d gotten from the market, I cooked a selection of 5 dishes. 15 cups worth of rice, mixed with sumptuous amount of crabs, were emptied in such a blink that I was stunned by the speed.

If I were able to deliver a sense of joy by my cooking to the family who by supplying the top quality fish makes us happy on daily basis, even if it was only the slightest, would have been my great pleasure.   

Cornwallの沿岸に、たった２，３週間の間、紋甲烏賊が産卵のためにやってきます。他の烏賊に比べ、もともと英国ではあまり好んで食べられないようで市場では良い扱いは受けていませんが、鮮度さえ良ければ非常に甘みが濃く、舌触りも良い素晴らしい食材です。

当店にも漁師から届き始めると共に、ぜひ漁を見に来いという誘いに誘発され、また、活けジメ作業のアップデートもしたかったので早春のCornwallに再び行ってきました。

この時期のCornwallは初めてでしたが、菜の花畑の黄色、新緑の緑、咲き乱れる色とりどりの野の花々など、とてもきれいでした。残念ながら相変わらず、天気はぐずついてばかりでしたが。

紋甲烏賊は専用のトラップ（かご）の中にメスの烏賊を一杯入れておくと、それにひきつけられて群れで入ってくるという面白い仕掛けを使います。当日はあいにくトラップには烏賊は入っておらず刺し網の漁のみとなりました。それでもたくさんの烏賊が獲れ、船内で行う内蔵を取り出す作業では体中墨だらけになりました。

この日の船長のMarioはガラパゴス出身の生まれながらの漁師で、船の中での会話では漁に対するさまざまな経験を聞くことが出来、楽しい経験となりました。

翌日はDylan夫婦がファーマーズマーケットに出店する日で、私は夕食を担当することにしました。船から揚がったばかりの魚と、マーケットで買った野菜を使って5品を作りました。蟹をたっぷり入れた約15カップのご飯があっという間になくなったのには驚きでした。

　毎日新鮮な魚を送ってくれて私たちを喜ばしてくれる大切なご家族を、私の料理で少しでも喜んでいただけたことは私にとっても本当に嬉しかったです。

Pottery work in Shepherd Market 作陶生活その後

 

The development of my challenge to replace all tableware at Umu with my own works of ceramic, although has almost been a year since started, is still far from completion.
 
During the long, miserable winter in London, I spent most weekends facing potter's wheel, moreover I found myself doing the same during the weeks whenever time suited. Nonetheless the hardship of progressing the ceramic-making parallel to providing service at the restaurant cannot yet be triumphed.
 
However, the gradual rise in number of supporters has been definitely allowing the challenge to move forward.　
 
"Kabuto-bachi", a thick porcelain bowl I am focusing on at the moment, specially for tofu and lobster dish preparation, has wider opening rim than those I used to work on. I cannot deny the struggle in experimenting with the new style, yet few are already becoming in shape.
 
The stage of unglazed kilning has completed, thanks to Ms Midori Aoshima of M Ceramics. The following step of mixing glazes, combining with familiarising with a new kiln, is still requiring number of trials, but prototypes are expected to be finalised shortly. Needless to say, I am very eagerly awaiting to meet them.
 
Together with Ms Midori, I have visited London Ceramic Art Show not long ago. Familiar faces from previous year's show filled the venue, but inspiring nature was still present all the same. In addition, I enjoyed the new discoveries which I only could acquire with the experience I gained through touching British clay with my own hands.

 

UMUで使う食器を全て私の手作りの陶器に変えようというチャレンジは1年が過ぎようという今でも僅かな物しか完成していません。

天気の悪いロンドンの冬の間、ほとんどの週末はロクロの前に座り続けました。週の半ばでも時間さえあれば少しずつ続けていましたが、日常のレストランの営業を続けながらそれをやるのはなかなか困難です。

それでも周りで手助けをしてくれるひとが増えてきて、少しずつ進んでいます。

今は豆腐とロブスターを盛り付けるための兜鉢を作っています。今までの中では口径の大きな鉢なので苦戦していますが、なんとか数が出来そうです。 

M ceramic の青島みどりさんが素焼きをしてくれ、次のステップとしての釉薬の調合と新しい窯で試行錯誤しています。もうすぐテストピースが出来てくるそうでとても楽しみです。

先日ロンドンセラミックアートショーがあり、みどりさんと行ってきました。昨年とほとんど同じ顔ぶれでしたが、自分がイギリスの土をいじっているから分かるような新たな発見もあり、刺激を受けてきました。

 

Kizuna – the bond 絆

 

Spring is approaching for the third time since I’ve started new chapter of my life in London. Through whole new series of challenges – being an executive chef for the first time, adjusting myself to new environment and understanding the diverse palette of Western culture – though I still find myself being lost time to time, the picture I had in my mind gradually but surely started to form its appearance.

Uncountable encounters with new associates and reunions with trusty fellows from past, “kizuna” with those who surround me have been giving me unlimited supply of support.

Fishermen and hunters who deliver fresh fish and game on daily basis; farmers who weed the land every day and aim to produce highest quality vegetables through trials and errors; the staff of organic stock farm who devotedly hand-make compost in the enormous land of Wales; every time I hold the ingredients in my hands, I think of the passionate faces of those who dedicatedly continue to deliver and making the Umu experience possible.

Last but not least, I am sending my greatest gratitude quietly every day to the staffs of Umu who go through all the goods and bads together at the restaurant in ever-so hectic days.

ロンドンに来て、3度目の春を迎えようとしています。総料理長としての初めてのチャレンジで、未だに戸惑うことばかりですが、ロンドンに来て以来、心に思い描いていたことがようやく形になりつつあります。

多くの人と出会い、昔からの信頼する仲間と再開し、多くの人との絆に助けられています。毎日釣りたての魚や鳥獣を送ってくれる漁師や猟師たち。毎日雑草と戦いながら試行錯誤をしながら野菜を作り続けてくれる農家の方々。ウェールズの広大な牧場で堆肥作りに精を出す牧場のスタッフ。手元に届く食材を見るたびに多くの笑顔を思い出します。

そしてなにより、忙しい毎日を共に過ごしてくれているUMUのスタッフには、感謝感謝の毎日です。

Arrival of Spring そろそろ春

Between the usual days where thick crowd covering sky of London, although not many, we started to have days with clear, blue sky. Daffodils in Berkeley Square began to bear buds and blooming of crocuses and lilies can be already seen in places.

While the variety of games available gradually becoming limited due to prohibition on hunting, woodcock has arrived from Cornwall. This rare breed of bird, with deliciously pronounced flavour and guts perfect for creating sauce, is also going into the season of prohibition shortly. This will probably be the last we have the pleasure of serving until it becomes available again next year.

Also humongous lobster arrived from the fisherman I visited in autumn. It weighs astonishing 5kg, and even a single claw seems to be enough to fill up one’s appetite.

Continuing from last year, the executive chefs from every London-based restaurant of MARC had gathered at Cassis Bistro in South Kensington to host a special dinner event, featuring 20 kg worth of Périgord truffle. As I enjoyed the remarkable aroma fill the entire restaurant, I also felt the season of this culinary treasure coming to its climax.

Soon we will be receiving specialty ingredients of spring. I wonder about the encounters of tastes that await me this year. 

一日中雲に覆われるロンドンの空にも、ほんの時々ではありますが青空が見える日が出てきました。公園の水仙もつぼみが膨らみ、クロッカスや鈴蘭がところどころで咲いています。

ジビエも少しずつ種類が減りましたが、禁猟間直のベカスがコーンウォールの猟師から届きました。旨味が強く、内臓を使ったソースがとても美味しい貴重な鳥ですが、来年まで見納めです。

春に訪れた漁師から、巨大なロブスターも届きました。重さが約５ｋｇあり、一つの爪だけでもおなかいっぱいになりそうです。

今年も去年に引き続き、Marcレストラン全店舗のシェフが集まり、ペリゴールのトリュフを２０ｋｇも使って特別ディナーが開催されました。レストラン全体がトリュフの香に包まれた至福のひと時でしたが、その季節もそろそろ終盤です。 

もうすぐ春の材料が届き始める頃。今年はどんな出会いがあるか楽しみです

M Ceramics – London’s historical landmark bridges over Britain and Japan ロンドンの歴史的建造物の中で架ける英国と日本の橋

 

Ms Midori Aoshima, who I had met at the Leach pottery and come to know better through her kind assist in kilning my ceramics, officially moved to London and started her fresh activity at newly-opened atelier “Zen Pottery” at the County Hall. She had to flew back to London before fully enjoy prosperity of her own exhibition held in Nihonbashi Takashimaya in Tokyo which comprised mainly her works from St. Ives.

When I visited the atelier recently I was re-cognizant of the County Hall’s beautiful appearance and structure which stood in superb location, and within it, there were 3 super-sized, stunning kilns sitting and waiting to be fired up.

Carrying Japanese spirit and equipped with skills from the same origin, her enthusiastic manner towards endless search for ultimate creation from the unison of British raw materials and environment, though our styles of works differ, is undoubtingly inspiring.

I cannot deny my high expectation for cooperating with her in future, whether it is for her assistance in creating my own ceramics or decorating hers with my idea of culinary art.

Based on Midori’s impressive connection and insight into the field of British ceramic art, I have great confidence in her future success which is unlimitedly widened by her deep affection to culture of British/Japanese ceramic and culinary art.

St.Ivesの Leach pottery でお会いし、素人の私が形作った陶器を快く焼成してくださった青島みどりさんが正式にロンドンに移住され、あのカウンティホールに新設されたZen potteryというアトリエで活動を再開されました。

みどりさんは先日、St.Ivesで作られた作品により、日本橋の高島屋で個展をされ、大盛況に後ろ髪を引かれながら英国に戻ってこられました。

先日工房を訪ねたとき、改めてその立地と、建物の素晴らしさに感動しました。そしてその素晴らしいビルの中に信じられないほど大きな窯が3基、使われることを待ちわびるかのように据えられていました。

日本人の精神、技術を持ち合わせ、英国の素材と空気の中で何が出来るかを模索されている姿は、作るものは違っても非常に共感するところがあります。 

 これから私が自分で使いたい食器を作っていただく、或いは私自身が作ることをお手伝いしていただくなど本当に楽しみでなりません。

みどりさんは英国の陶芸界にも広い人脈をもたれていますし、英国と日本の陶芸や食に関わる文化に非常に興味をもたれているのでこれからの活躍が大いに期待されます。

New addition to UMU． UMUの新しい仲間

At the end of last year, Mr Kazuya Ishida, an up-and-coming young ceramic artist from Bizen (one of the hometown of Japanese earthenware), who currently resides in London to polish his skill and widen his field of activity, personally delivered a huge vase specially made by him for Umu.

The vase is fully decorated with his speciality skill, which technique I was blown away by when I observed for the first time while he was teaching me potter’s wheel skill few months back, and was made up to be a very powerful piece.

Unlike the standard ceramic vases for Japanese-style drawing room, Mr Ishida had to consider many requests and restrictions creating this particular piece, however the outcome was an outstanding, beautifully finished vase which is yet practical. After only 1 month of being part of the restaurant, the vase is already blending in perfectly to create the Umu atmosphere, almost like it has been where it meant to be for many years.

陶芸の故郷、備前から陶芸の技術と共に英国で活動するために滞在されている若手陶芸家の石田和也氏が昨年末、当店のために大きな花入れを製作して届けてくれました。

私の家でロクロ技術を教えてくれた数ヶ月前、彼の持つ特殊技術に驚かされましたが、まさにその技術で装飾が施された力強い作品です。 

日本のお座敷に置かれるのと違ったいろいろな制約がある中での製作をお願いしましたが、大変使いやすく、約一ヶ月が経った今では昔からそこにあったかのようにお店に馴染んでいます。