Petit renewal プチリニューアル

In September, Umu reached the 8^th anniversary and has undergone few refurbishments for renewal.  

The distribution system to receive fish, which is preserved in the special method I mentioned here before, finally started to operate smoothly. The stabilization of fresh fish supply, and also better understanding in great food resources of Europe, resulted in significant changes to our menu. Our a la carte menu, which had been firmly fixed throughout a year unlike the Kaiseki tasting menu, became more reflected on daily market availability to include fresher, more seasonal fish. The presentation of menu itself has changed in its style to imitate Japanese scroll, and I personally prepared the background with watercolour painting. I was also aiming to replace the series of tableware completely to comprise only my own ceramics, the ones made by a familiar artist upon my request or organic British slates, however, as suspected, my amateurish creation did not go according to the plan and we started off with a limited selection.  

Removing black cod – one of the most popular dishes – from the menu, and instead concentrated on the ingredients by being particular about their origins and quality, I could say we have created the menu most suitable for the character of Umu.

 

  

9月に入り、オープンしてから6年が経つＵＭＵでは幾つかのリニューアルがされました。

ようやく活けじめの魚が漁師からコンスタントに直接届くシステムを軌道に乗せることが出来たことと、欧州の素晴らしい食材の事情が分かったことからメニューを大幅に刷新しました。懐石のコースメニュー以外はほぼ固定だったメニューを、より市場を反映したものにし、その日に漁で獲れたもの、より季節を反映させたものを日替わりで載せられるようにしました。そのメニューの台紙も日本の“巻紙”をイメージし、下絵を水彩画でしたためました。

食器も9月からほとんどの食器を自作のもの、知り合いの作陶家に依頼したもの、英国の自然からできるスレートなどのもので揃えたかったのですが、素人の私の作陶がそれほど思うように行くわけもなく、ごく限られたものからのスタートとなりました。

今までベストセラーの一つであった銀ダラなどをあえてメニューから外し、より地元で取れた最高の食材にこだわった、ＵＭＵらしいメニューになったと思います。

 

London 2012 ロンドンオリンピック

As the city got excited and enthusiastic for London 2012 and prepared for chaos that might be brought together with this global festival, Umu also got ready by planning ahead meticulously, adjusting menus and securing ingredients. Nonetheless, contrary to everyone’s expectation, the city became deserted as the games had begun and its severeness was even widely broadcasted. 

As much as we appreciated visits from the event’s contributors and athletes and they sure did put us in better mood at the restaurant, we also firmly persisted on keeping our style/motto which is to value every single guest on daily basis, by not excessively attending special events. In other words, we are having our usual summer here.

 Meanwhile, Ms. Midori Endo, a ceramic artist of Bernard Leach Pottery who I have mentioned few times in this blog, kindly made time out of her busy schedule to help firing my creation of ceramics so I had a quick, brief day trip to St. Ives in very limited time. I cannot thank her enough fro finishing up to the very last touch of my ceramic works in significantly short period of time, even though all the while, she had preparation for her own exhibition at Takashimaya, Nihonbashi (renowned department store in Tokyo) as well as her duties in working with Mr. Jack Doherty, a chief potter at Leach Pottery. Moreover, she generously delivered back part of the finished ceramics all the way to London in person, just a day before her flight back to Japan.

 Also I found some time fro myself to photograph new ideas of food presentations on newly made dishes, together with some of Ms. Midori’s works I have borrowed. This was my first attempt to use soda-fired potteries, a speciality method of Ms. Midori/Leach pottery, for purpose of food arrangement. Regardless to slight struggle in combining foods and the unique ceramics into beautiful unison, I had very blissful time.  

While the world is experiencing the fever and excitement of the Olympic game, at Umu we are experiencing rather typical relaxing summer ‘12.　　 

大混雑が予想され、ロンドン中が大騒ぎになっていたオリンピック開始前、当店でもスケジュールやメニューの調整、材料の確保に追われましたが、始まってみると予想に反して街の中心はゴーストタウン化してしまったことは報道でも大きく取り上げられていました。 

  
ＵＭＵにも多くの関係者や選手の方がいらっしゃり、ムードは高まっていましたが、日常を崩さず、お店に来られるお客様を大切にするというスタンスは変えまいと特別なイベントには基本的には参加しませんでしたので結果的には普段の夏とあまり変わらないといった感じです。

さんの手伝いが控えていながら、ほとんど寝る間も無く短期間で全てをこなしてくださり、感謝感激です！日本に帰られる前の日に、わざわざロンドンまで完成品の一部を届けてくれました。そんな中、バーナード．リーチ工房で活動されている遠藤みどりさんが私の形作った食器の焼成を忙しい合間を縫ってやってくださることとなり、ほとんど日帰り状態でセントアイビスを往復してきました。みどりさんは日本橋高島屋での自らの個展と主任陶芸家であるJack Doherty

みどりさんの作品も一部お借りし、時間を見つけて料理を盛り付けて写真の撮影もしました。リーチ工房、みどりさんの用いる特殊な技法である“ソーダ釉”の独特な風合いは今まで料理では使ったことが無かったので写真撮りも少々苦労しましたが楽しい時間でした。

世界がオリンピックで沸く中、ＵＭＵはいつもと変わらない夏です。

Mersea Island festival Mersea島フィスティバル

I was very honoured when I had been invited to be a presenter for the very first festival of Mersea island in Colchester district, so I tagged along sous-chef Neves, his loving wife and a cheeky son, and together we headed to the Northern region of Dover by peaceful train ride.

The site located in a winery field, the festival welcomed significant number of visitors despite unfortunate weather. Other than our presentation booth, entertainments included specially food of the island such as oysters, fish and honey, folk crafts sale and an open-air concert, which together achieved great success.

As a presentation, I performed the fish preserving technique at our booth upon request from local fishmonger, the same skill I had mentioned in my “Revolution of Fish & Chips” project. I was very moved by the great turn-ups of local fishermen and anglers who eagerly observed and became very keen on practicing it themselves. Neves prepared sea bass sashimi while thoughtfully explaining the process, the outcome was heartwarming as many happily queued up to have a taste.

After the event, Darcy from “Colchester Oyster” fishery who was also the main host of the festival gave us a quick tour around the isle by a car. It was my first time to see the Eastern side of the Great Britain, never-ending scenery of the shallow sea and a prairie was breathe-taking. If only the weather was nicer….. It’d have been a perfect day.  

ロンドンから電車に揺られ、ドーバー海峡の北に向かって45分、Colchester市にあるMersea島で、島を挙げての初めてのお祭りにプレゼンテーターとして招かれ、副料理長のNevesとその愛妻、お茶目な息子と共に行ってきました。

ワイン農家の敷地を会場としており、あいにくの寒さと曇りの中でもたくさんの来場者に恵まれました。私達のプレゼン会場のほかに、島特産の牡蠣、魚、蜂蜜などの食べ物や、地域の民芸品などが売られたほか、野外コンサートも開かれて、盛り上がっていました。

プレゼンでは地元の魚屋の要望で私が最近始めた“Revolution of Fish & chips” の本題である“活けジメ（神経〆）”を解説しました。地元の手釣り漁師も多く集まり、非常に興味を持って“自分たちもやりたい！”と口々に言ってくれたのは本当に嬉しかったです。Nevesの優しい解説と共に造られたスズキのお刺身を多くの人が並びながら喜んで味見してくれたのも微笑ましい光景でした。

イベントの後、主催者である“Colchester Oyster”のDarcyが島全体を車で案内してくれました。私もブリテン島の西側を見るのは初めてで、遠浅の海と草原とが果てしなく続く景色はとてもきれいでした。あれで天気さえ良かったのなら。。。最高の一日でした。

Chef`s Journey through British fishery in Cornwall Vol.4 活けジメを伝えにCornwallへ小旅行その4

(Day 5)

From the early morning, I was once again out on the shore on a boat owned by “P.J” Godfrey, specializing in gill net fishing. Contrary to the day before, the weather was awfully stormy, but the boat just made it way straight to the inshore fishery despite its surprisingly not so modern equipments. Haddock and dogfish were caught in the net which had been set during the night before, unfortunately my target monkfish was nowhere to be seen. 

Back in the Bullus' office, I prepared sashimi out of haddock, mackerel and sole upon request from Naomi’s sister, Emma. Their father Geoff, the chairman of the company, was not very keen on eating raw fish at first, however he seemed to enjoy more than anyone once he tried it, which gave me great pleasure.  

During this trip, I have met more people than I expected who have a similar passion to me and enjoyed uncountable discussions with them about providing quality fish to restaurants. However, by going out with the fisherman and fishing myself I can see how hard it is to consistently use my style and methods.  In time though, with practice and understanding, I do think we can spread the fish preserving method widely enough to actually make an impact. If more fishermen can appreciate the pride in providing the freshest fish to restaurants and diners realize how much better proper fresh fish tastes then it will be worth it.

I really enjoyed this trip, surrounded by beautiful nature and meeting the beautiful people of Cornwall! 

5日目は朝から船長“P.J” Godfrey の操る刺し網専門の中型船に乗せてもらいました。昨日と打って変わって大荒れの天気でしたがその中を決して最新型とは言えないボートは漁場へと向かいました。夜中に仕掛けた網には主にHaddock やDogfish(ﾈｺｻﾞﾒ)がかかり、お目当てのMonk fish（アンコウ）はかかりませんでした。帰りの船の中で＊が魚の処理をする際に改めて活けジメの方法を伝えました。刺身に向くような魚は獲れませんでしたが、それでも始めてのやり方には興味深々のようでした。

事務所に戻ってから、Naomiさんの姉妹である Emmaからのリクエストで釣ってきたHaddock, Mackerel, Soleを刺身にしました。Naomiさんのお父さんであり、会社社長であるGeoffは“生の魚なんていらん！”と言っていたのが一口食べるなりやみつきになったのか皿を抱えるようにして喜んで食べてくれたのは感動的でした！

今回の旅を通じ、多くの釣り人と話しをし、実際に漁を体験してみると、活けジメを普及させるためにはまだまだ多くの課題があることを気付かされると同時に、上手く解決すれば多くの可能性も秘めていると感じることが出来ました。漁師が今まで以上に自分で釣った魚に対する意識を高めていき、何より消費者であるシェフや魚屋が活けジメの魚の有効性を並行して考えることが出来れば、最高の魚が市場に並ぶ日がやってくるように思います。

　素晴らしい大自然と、素晴らしい人々に会うことができ、充実した旅でした。

Chef`s Journey through British fishery in Cornwall Vol.3 活けジメを伝えにCornwallへ小旅行その3

Day 3
After arriving in St Ives late the night before, my plan for the day was to visit the Bernard Leach pottery. I was also joined by a journalist who came all the way from London expressly to cover my activity. I re-visited Ms. Midori, a Japanese ceramist in the renowned atelier, who will be playing a significant role in my ceramic project in the near future. At a lovely hotel-detached restaurant over a hill close by, we had lunch as she shared her interesting and eye-opening insights into the world of ceramic art.


Day 4
By the time the Sun was up, I was already out  mackerel fishing on a boat, thanks to a local fishmonger Ms. Naomi Bullus' kind help in making the arrangement with a fisherman, Boy Jon Stevens. Beautiful weather and the fact that 10kg worth of mackerel had already been caught in the morning round were boosting my expectation, and it did in fact turnout to be an awesome day. The method used in mackerel fishing here is similar to the one adopted in Japan.  The devise uses about 20 strings with bird feathers attached to them, which allows a few dozen mackerel to be caught per stream. The speed and efficiency of fishermen performing each step of the routine was very impressive. I had a go and needless to say, my performance was not comparable to theirs! I promptly demonstrated the same preserving technique on fish we had just caught right there on the boat while the fishermen carefully and eagerly observed. They were impressively quick in getting the hang of it and I couldn’t help but already look forward to the fresher fish we would be receiving from them, back in London.

In the evening, Naomi invited me to join her family and friends for dinner and we headed to the restaurant directly opposite to St. Michael's Mt in Marazion. In the secluded atmosphere of the country, I sincerely enjoyed amazing food and the great company.




三日目。昨晩遅くにSt Ivesに着きました。今日はロンドンからわざわざ私の活動を取材に来てくれたジャーナリストと共に、Bernard Leach Potteryを訪れました。そこで働く陶芸家のMidoriさんと3人で陶芸の話しをしながら、海の見える小高い陸の上にあるホテルレストランで食事をしました。Midoriさんは今後私がしている陶磁器製作のキーパーソンとなり、いろいろとためになる話を聞くことが出来ました。

四日目、既に日が昇った時間からの出航で魚屋のNaomiさんが手配をしてくれたBoyJon Stevensの操るサバの手釣り漁にジャーナリストと共に行きました。Boyjonは朝の漁で既に10kgのサバを釣り上げたとのこと、満々の期待と素晴らしい天気にも恵まれ、最高の一日でした。日本でも使われる鳥の羽のついた20本ほどの釣り針の仕掛けでひと流しごとに数十匹のサバが釣れてきます。手返しの早さはさすがにプロで、私も釣り人根性でやらせてもらいましたが、彼らには到底及びません。 

　釣れた魚をその場で活けジメをして見せましたが、彼も非常に熱心にやり方を見てくれ、何匹かやるうちにコツもつかんだようで今後の魚が楽しみです。

夜にはNaomiさんの家族と、その友人も合流し、MarazionのSt Michael’s Mt真向かいにあるレストランで夕食に招待していただきました。田舎町にありながら、素晴らしい料理で、暖かいBullus家の方々との楽しい会話と共にとても楽しむことが出来ました。

Chef`s Journey through British fishery in Cornwall Vol.2 活けジメを伝えにCornwallへ小旅行その2

                                           



Teaching how to" IKEJIME"



Day 2
I was already out on the shore from early morning on a boat departing from Coverack Bay. After our attempt to rod-fish mackerel failed miserably due to the unfortunate tide movement, we decided to haul in gill nets which had already been set in place the night before. Only one red mullet was netted which was my primary target, but luckily we also caught wrass, pollack and plaice which allowed me to demonstrate a special fish preserving technique mainly used in Japan. To equip local fishermen with this particular technique was one of my original aims of this trip. Willie, a dedicated, passionate and very skilled fisherman, who is also the owner of the boat, comprehended why it is important this is performed by front line fishermen, even through my clumsy English, and promised to continue practicing the method.

After returning to the ground, I watched other local fishermen hauling in nets and whenever I saw chances, demonstrated the same technique in front of them. I was overwhelmed by the interest everyone showed, despite it being a totally unfamiliar method. Dover sole, turbot, gurnard, spider crab, seeing all the fishes preserved almost as fresh as when they were alive was such an achievement. I returned to Dylan & Mutsuko's for dinner, where we had blanched spider crab, home-grown vegetable salad and my impromptu sashimi dish of Dover sole and gurnard. It was a truly supreme, blissful experience! 

二日目早朝、Coverack bay   から、漁師Willieの船で沖に出ました。長髪の似合う男前です。すでに夜中からGill net（刺し網）を仕掛けておいてくれ、まずはサバの手釣りを試みるものの、潮の動きが悪く、思わしくないため、網を上げることをしました。狙っていたRed Mulletは1匹しかかからなかったものの、Wrasse（大きいベラ）やPollack, Place（カレイ）などがかかり、その場で活けジメの方法を伝えました。Willieは非常に熱心な釣り人で魚の扱いも優れており、私のつたない英語力でも活けジメの意味を理解してくれ、今後続けてくれると約束してくれました。

その後陸に戻り、後から戻ってくる漁師の水揚げを見ながら、その他の漁師にも活けｼﾞﾒを伝えました。皆、初めてのことですが非常に関心を持ってくれ、本当に嬉しく感じました。Doversolle やTurbot , Gurnardや SpiderCrubなど、まだ活きているような状態の魚ばかりでした。その後、Dylanと Mutsukoさんのご自宅で夕食となり、茹でたてのSpider Crabと目の前の畑で栽培している野菜のサラダ、即席で私が作ったDoversoleとGurnardの刺身で至福のひと時となりました。

Chef`s Journey through British fishery in Cornwall Vol.1 活けジメを伝えにCornwallへ小旅行その１

It was last year, under the slogan of "Revolution of Fish & Chips", that I began my challenge to improve the quality of  the fish which is used in London’s restaurants, not only for the benefit of Umu, but also to raise the standard of British markets. Since then, I have come across many prospective participants, mainly from the fishing industry, and after many discussions and negotiations I started to get a clearer idea of who I will be working closely with on this project. In order to have more detailed discussions in person with local fishermen in  St. Ives and to experience very privileged arrangements on the fishing boats, I have decided to once again return to the primary location of this challenge, Cornwall.

(Day 1)
Even though I had arrived in Helston exhausted, after a five hour drive in a rented car, I was so excited just to be near the ocean that I could not help myself but to immediately head to the Southernmost point of the peninsula, Lizard. I strolled through the tip of the cape then tried fishing sea bass with my hand-carried rod, unfortunately what I caught in the end were only small pollack. Nevertheless, accompanied by beautiful weather, I enjoyed myself surrounded by the amazing view of the seafront and summer flowers in bloom.

Just past 8 o'clock, I had arrived at my appointment with local fishmongers Dylan & Mutsuko and we made our way to a nearby pub where we discussed about the local fishery situation over dinner. During dinner they told me that only two sea bass had been caught over last few days by canoe fishing and in fact, they were the only sea bass I came across during this entire trip. This has made me rethink the significance of each season and the importance of taking it into consideration when I create seasonal menus.

“Revolution of Fish and Chip”と銘打って、当店で使う魚、布いては英国の市場に出る魚をより良いものにするためにライフワークとして動き出したのは昨年からですが、昨年訪ねたときから多くの漁業関係者と交渉を重ねた上で幾つかの候補が見つかり、改めてCornwall への旅に行ってきました。昨年冬に尋ねたSt Ivesの魚屋さんも幾人かの釣り人をアレンジしてくださり、また、新たにコンタクトを取ることができたHelstonの魚屋さんに卸す手釣り漁師の船にも乗ることが出来、活けじめの方法を教えることが出来ました。

一日目。ロンドンで車を借りて約5時間でHelstonに着きましたが、一刻も早く海が見たいと言う気持ちに駆られ半島の最南端、Lizardに行きました。岬の先端を散策しつつ、手持ちの釣竿でシーバスを狙いましたが、釣ることができたのは小型のPollackだけでした。天気が良く、素晴らしい色の海と咲き乱れる自然の小花を楽しむことが出来ました。

8時を過ぎ、打ち合わせをしていた魚屋さん、DylanとMutsukoさんの家に着き、打ち合わせを兼ねてパブにて食事。現地の漁のことをいろいろ聞くことが出来ました。シーバスはこの数日間でカヌーフィッシングで釣られた2匹のみしかいないということを聞き、その後6日間のCornwall滞在中に見たシーバスはこの二匹だけだったので、いかにシーズンが大切かということ、ＵＭＵのメニュー編成の大切さを感じました。