Kizuna – the bond 絆

 

Spring is approaching for the third time since I’ve started new chapter of my life in London. Through whole new series of challenges – being an executive chef for the first time, adjusting myself to new environment and understanding the diverse palette of Western culture – though I still find myself being lost time to time, the picture I had in my mind gradually but surely started to form its appearance.

Uncountable encounters with new associates and reunions with trusty fellows from past, “kizuna” with those who surround me have been giving me unlimited supply of support.

Fishermen and hunters who deliver fresh fish and game on daily basis; farmers who weed the land every day and aim to produce highest quality vegetables through trials and errors; the staff of organic stock farm who devotedly hand-make compost in the enormous land of Wales; every time I hold the ingredients in my hands, I think of the passionate faces of those who dedicatedly continue to deliver and making the Umu experience possible.

Last but not least, I am sending my greatest gratitude quietly every day to the staffs of Umu who go through all the goods and bads together at the restaurant in ever-so hectic days.

ロンドンに来て、3度目の春を迎えようとしています。総料理長としての初めてのチャレンジで、未だに戸惑うことばかりですが、ロンドンに来て以来、心に思い描いていたことがようやく形になりつつあります。

多くの人と出会い、昔からの信頼する仲間と再開し、多くの人との絆に助けられています。毎日釣りたての魚や鳥獣を送ってくれる漁師や猟師たち。毎日雑草と戦いながら試行錯誤をしながら野菜を作り続けてくれる農家の方々。ウェールズの広大な牧場で堆肥作りに精を出す牧場のスタッフ。手元に届く食材を見るたびに多くの笑顔を思い出します。

そしてなにより、忙しい毎日を共に過ごしてくれているUMUのスタッフには、感謝感謝の毎日です。

Arrival of Spring そろそろ春

Between the usual days where thick crowd covering sky of London, although not many, we started to have days with clear, blue sky. Daffodils in Berkeley Square began to bear buds and blooming of crocuses and lilies can be already seen in places.

While the variety of games available gradually becoming limited due to prohibition on hunting, woodcock has arrived from Cornwall. This rare breed of bird, with deliciously pronounced flavour and guts perfect for creating sauce, is also going into the season of prohibition shortly. This will probably be the last we have the pleasure of serving until it becomes available again next year.

Also humongous lobster arrived from the fisherman I visited in autumn. It weighs astonishing 5kg, and even a single claw seems to be enough to fill up one’s appetite.

Continuing from last year, the executive chefs from every London-based restaurant of MARC had gathered at Cassis Bistro in South Kensington to host a special dinner event, featuring 20 kg worth of Périgord truffle. As I enjoyed the remarkable aroma fill the entire restaurant, I also felt the season of this culinary treasure coming to its climax.

Soon we will be receiving specialty ingredients of spring. I wonder about the encounters of tastes that await me this year. 

一日中雲に覆われるロンドンの空にも、ほんの時々ではありますが青空が見える日が出てきました。公園の水仙もつぼみが膨らみ、クロッカスや鈴蘭がところどころで咲いています。

ジビエも少しずつ種類が減りましたが、禁猟間直のベカスがコーンウォールの猟師から届きました。旨味が強く、内臓を使ったソースがとても美味しい貴重な鳥ですが、来年まで見納めです。

春に訪れた漁師から、巨大なロブスターも届きました。重さが約５ｋｇあり、一つの爪だけでもおなかいっぱいになりそうです。

今年も去年に引き続き、Marcレストラン全店舗のシェフが集まり、ペリゴールのトリュフを２０ｋｇも使って特別ディナーが開催されました。レストラン全体がトリュフの香に包まれた至福のひと時でしたが、その季節もそろそろ終盤です。 

もうすぐ春の材料が届き始める頃。今年はどんな出会いがあるか楽しみです

M Ceramics – London’s historical landmark bridges over Britain and Japan ロンドンの歴史的建造物の中で架ける英国と日本の橋

 

Ms Midori Aoshima, who I had met at the Leach pottery and come to know better through her kind assist in kilning my ceramics, officially moved to London and started her fresh activity at newly-opened atelier “Zen Pottery” at the County Hall. She had to flew back to London before fully enjoy prosperity of her own exhibition held in Nihonbashi Takashimaya in Tokyo which comprised mainly her works from St. Ives.

When I visited the atelier recently I was re-cognizant of the County Hall’s beautiful appearance and structure which stood in superb location, and within it, there were 3 super-sized, stunning kilns sitting and waiting to be fired up.

Carrying Japanese spirit and equipped with skills from the same origin, her enthusiastic manner towards endless search for ultimate creation from the unison of British raw materials and environment, though our styles of works differ, is undoubtingly inspiring.

I cannot deny my high expectation for cooperating with her in future, whether it is for her assistance in creating my own ceramics or decorating hers with my idea of culinary art.

Based on Midori’s impressive connection and insight into the field of British ceramic art, I have great confidence in her future success which is unlimitedly widened by her deep affection to culture of British/Japanese ceramic and culinary art.

St.Ivesの Leach pottery でお会いし、素人の私が形作った陶器を快く焼成してくださった青島みどりさんが正式にロンドンに移住され、あのカウンティホールに新設されたZen potteryというアトリエで活動を再開されました。

みどりさんは先日、St.Ivesで作られた作品により、日本橋の高島屋で個展をされ、大盛況に後ろ髪を引かれながら英国に戻ってこられました。

先日工房を訪ねたとき、改めてその立地と、建物の素晴らしさに感動しました。そしてその素晴らしいビルの中に信じられないほど大きな窯が3基、使われることを待ちわびるかのように据えられていました。

日本人の精神、技術を持ち合わせ、英国の素材と空気の中で何が出来るかを模索されている姿は、作るものは違っても非常に共感するところがあります。 

 これから私が自分で使いたい食器を作っていただく、或いは私自身が作ることをお手伝いしていただくなど本当に楽しみでなりません。

みどりさんは英国の陶芸界にも広い人脈をもたれていますし、英国と日本の陶芸や食に関わる文化に非常に興味をもたれているのでこれからの活躍が大いに期待されます。

New addition to UMU． UMUの新しい仲間

At the end of last year, Mr Kazuya Ishida, an up-and-coming young ceramic artist from Bizen (one of the hometown of Japanese earthenware), who currently resides in London to polish his skill and widen his field of activity, personally delivered a huge vase specially made by him for Umu.

The vase is fully decorated with his speciality skill, which technique I was blown away by when I observed for the first time while he was teaching me potter’s wheel skill few months back, and was made up to be a very powerful piece.

Unlike the standard ceramic vases for Japanese-style drawing room, Mr Ishida had to consider many requests and restrictions creating this particular piece, however the outcome was an outstanding, beautifully finished vase which is yet practical. After only 1 month of being part of the restaurant, the vase is already blending in perfectly to create the Umu atmosphere, almost like it has been where it meant to be for many years.

陶芸の故郷、備前から陶芸の技術と共に英国で活動するために滞在されている若手陶芸家の石田和也氏が昨年末、当店のために大きな花入れを製作して届けてくれました。

私の家でロクロ技術を教えてくれた数ヶ月前、彼の持つ特殊技術に驚かされましたが、まさにその技術で装飾が施された力強い作品です。 

日本のお座敷に置かれるのと違ったいろいろな制約がある中での製作をお願いしましたが、大変使いやすく、約一ヶ月が経った今では昔からそこにあったかのようにお店に馴染んでいます。

Happy new year!!! 今年もよろしくお願いいたします。

With a fresh start of the New Year, I would like to say thanks for the year that has just passed, and sincerely wish you all had a lovely Christmas and a happy new year! 

More than 2 years have passed since I first came to London to be the executive head chef at Umu, and this is my 3^rd time welcoming a new year, a new beginning. 

Although things have been very hectic at the restaurant throughout the previous year, due to events, refurbishments and distribution reform, thanks to the cooperation from each and every staff, we survived the year without any complication.  

Whether from our invaluable regulars or precious first-timers, smiles from the guests at the end of their Umu experience have been our priority target. The Umu staff, all together as a team, tried and worked our hardest to achieve this. This year or next year, or even further in the future, to create superb Umu experience which puts smile on everyone’s face will always be our ultimate goal. 

Thank you again to everyone for the wonderful past year.

We sincerely look forward to the day welcoming you at Umu, London in 2013.

 

私がUMUの料理長としてロンドンに来てから2年以上が経ち、3度目の年始を迎えました。

昨年はお店の中の改革やイベントで大忙しな一年でしたが、全てのお店のスタッフの協力のおかげで無事過ごす事ができました。

いつもいらしてくださる常連様も、一見様も、皆様の笑顔を見ることが全ての到着地点としてUMUスタッフ一同頑張ってきました。今年も、来年も、いつまでもその目標が変わることはありません。

昨年はどうもありがとうございました。

2013年も、ロンドンのUMUを、どうぞよろしくお願いいたします。

 

 

Autumn in Cornwall 初秋のCornwallへ

There are not many feelings like driving through the countryside of Cornwall already full of ambience in autumn. Accompanied by beautiful weather, it was so invigorating that I could feel all my stress lifted off my shoulder. Moreover, I felt refreshed being welcomed by lovely smiles of Dylan and Mutsuko, even though it was already past sunset when I arrived at their home. They took me to a gastro pub nearby, which was situated in a small seaside village surrounded by narrow roads where cars can barely pass each other. I was astonished by its prosperity despite its location and also their sophisticated and high quality foods were divine surprise. I was deeply intrigued by the conversation we had about recent fishing situation and Celtic ethnicity over the dinner.  

Woke up at 4am next morning and went fishing on a boat belong to Mr Anthony Hosking, a Dylan’s cousin, carrying with me Mutsuko’s handmade rice balls with home-made pickled plum filling. The catch was rather disappointing than what we had hoped for, due difficulty caused by gill nets being tangled with algae. Nonetheless, I was delighted to see fish caught in the 3 types of nets, very rich in variety. On the way back, I asked Anthony for his impression on the outcome of the particular catch in comparison to those on usual days, and he summed up to one word: “Rubbish!” Considering the hours and energy he puts in and also the expense of fuel, it was simply not good enough for him. 

After we got back on the land, I watched other ships being unloaded at Dylan’s house before made my way to a hotel. I was a little reluctant to leave, been having such delightful time. Next morning, I headed to St. Ives to collect the ceramics from Leach pottery, which Midori had had them kiln-baked before she went back to Japan for her own exhibition. Mr & Mrs Akira Yagi, a ceramist from Kyoto, were coincidently visiting as well, and I was unexpectedly given the opportunity to hear recent news of fellow chefs back in Kyoto. The finished ceramics made me reflect on not having to spend more time to perfect them, which made my tasks and targets in the future clearer.

Dylan and Mutsuko who arranged accommodation and introduced me to fishermen, Anthony and his crew Darren who kindly and patiently took very inexperienced person like me on the boat with them, Ms Midori who accepted my unreasonable request and actually completing them in limited time, and also a grandpa who entertained me at motorway service area with folktale of Celtic nations: this trip like any other, I cannot end without thanking all the people who helped making it very special.

 

　素晴らしい天気の中、既に秋の色濃いコーンウォールの田舎町を車で走るととても気持ちが良く、ストレスもすっかり忘れ、魚屋のDylanとMutsukoさんの家に着くころには日が暮れかけていましたが、笑顔で迎えられるととてもすがすがしい気持ちになれました。すぐに近くのガストロパブに連れて行ってくれ、車が２台すれ違うのがやっとといったような海沿いの田舎町にありながら席もとれないような大繁盛ぶりにびっくりさせられました。とても洗練された料理を堪能しました。最近の漁のこと、コーンウォールのケルト民族のことなど、興味深い話ができて充実したひと時でした。

 

翌朝は４時起きでDylanのいとこ、Anthonyさんのボート、“Lucy Marianna”でMutsukoさんの心のこもった自家製梅干し入りのおむすびを携え、漁に出かけました。大潮後で藻が刺し網に絡みつき、思うような漁には恵まれなかったものの、多種多様な魚が３種類の網にかかってきて私は大興奮でした。帰りにAnthony　に“今日の漁はいつもと比べると？”ときくと“Rubbish!“のひとこと。丸一日の労働と高価な燃料代などを考えると貧果であったようです。

 

Dylanの家で他の船の水揚げなどを見た後、心惜しみながらホテルに向かい、翌朝、St.IvesのLeach工房で食器を受け取りました。丁度京都から陶芸家の八木明ご夫妻がいらしており、思わぬところで京都の料理仲間の話題に花が咲きました。焼き上げられた食器は私が勢いで作ってしまったことを深く反省させられ、これからの課題を実感させられました。

一夜の宿と漁師の手配をしてくださったDylanご夫妻、役立たずな船員を一日船に載せてくれたAnthonyと船員のDarren、かなり無理のあるお願いにもかかわらず陶器を焼き上げてくださったみどりさん、途中のパーキングエリアでコーヒーを飲みながら昔のケルト民族の話をしてくれたおじいちゃん、今回も多くの人たちに感謝を感じた旅でした。

Organic Vegetable farmer Namayasai

 

As autumn is deepening rapidly, I received a call informing me that soon it’ll be time for a break between cultivation of vegetables due to frosting on a field over the winter. Therefore I decided to go visit Robin and Ikuko’s Namayasai LLP, a fully organic farm in Lewis, with some of Umu’s kitchen staff between the hectic schedules. 

Even though distance wise its location is not far from London, considering the lack of motorway, the trip summed up to 2 and a half hour drive. Every one, while letting me - the executive chef - drive all the way, had a peaceful nap in the car… 

This was my second visit to the farm, but comparing to 2 years ago, the variety of vegetables has become richer, and moreover the consistency in keeping the completely organic environment in which the vegetables are cultivated was truly admirable. 

It’ll be shame not to be able to receive their vegetables as we enter the winter, however that’s the real accordance to nature, and that’s why we are given the opportunity to enthusiastically long for the harvest time that will be brought together with blooming in spring. 

秋も深まる中、そろそろ畑にも霜が下りて野菜がなくなるという知らせを受けてぜひその前にと、いつもきれいな野菜を配達してくださるLewisにある完全無農薬栽培の農家、RobinさんとIkukoさんのNamaYasai LLPに忙しい合間を縫って調理場のスタッフ達と行って来ました。

ロンドンから距離的にはそう遠くないものの、高速道路が無いので2時間半ほどのドライブとなりました。料理長に運転させておいて、皆車の中で熟睡していい気なもんです 

畑に行くのは私は2度目となりましたが、2年前に行ったときよりもさらに多種の野菜を、無農薬の素晴らしい環境の中で育てられている様子には脱帽ものでした。

冬に入り、彼らの野菜が入らなくなるのは残念でなりませんが、それが本当の自然であり、だからこそ、春の芽吹きと共に始まる収穫を待ち望む楽しみが増えるというものです。