Mersea Island festival Mersea島フィスティバル

I was very honoured when I had been invited to be a presenter for the very first festival of Mersea island in Colchester district, so I tagged along sous-chef Neves, his loving wife and a cheeky son, and together we headed to the Northern region of Dover by peaceful train ride.

The site located in a winery field, the festival welcomed significant number of visitors despite unfortunate weather. Other than our presentation booth, entertainments included specially food of the island such as oysters, fish and honey, folk crafts sale and an open-air concert, which together achieved great success.

As a presentation, I performed the fish preserving technique at our booth upon request from local fishmonger, the same skill I had mentioned in my “Revolution of Fish & Chips” project. I was very moved by the great turn-ups of local fishermen and anglers who eagerly observed and became very keen on practicing it themselves. Neves prepared sea bass sashimi while thoughtfully explaining the process, the outcome was heartwarming as many happily queued up to have a taste.

After the event, Darcy from “Colchester Oyster” fishery who was also the main host of the festival gave us a quick tour around the isle by a car. It was my first time to see the Eastern side of the Great Britain, never-ending scenery of the shallow sea and a prairie was breathe-taking. If only the weather was nicer….. It’d have been a perfect day.  

ロンドンから電車に揺られ、ドーバー海峡の北に向かって45分、Colchester市にあるMersea島で、島を挙げての初めてのお祭りにプレゼンテーターとして招かれ、副料理長のNevesとその愛妻、お茶目な息子と共に行ってきました。

ワイン農家の敷地を会場としており、あいにくの寒さと曇りの中でもたくさんの来場者に恵まれました。私達のプレゼン会場のほかに、島特産の牡蠣、魚、蜂蜜などの食べ物や、地域の民芸品などが売られたほか、野外コンサートも開かれて、盛り上がっていました。

プレゼンでは地元の魚屋の要望で私が最近始めた“Revolution of Fish & chips” の本題である“活けジメ（神経〆）”を解説しました。地元の手釣り漁師も多く集まり、非常に興味を持って“自分たちもやりたい！”と口々に言ってくれたのは本当に嬉しかったです。Nevesの優しい解説と共に造られたスズキのお刺身を多くの人が並びながら喜んで味見してくれたのも微笑ましい光景でした。

イベントの後、主催者である“Colchester Oyster”のDarcyが島全体を車で案内してくれました。私もブリテン島の西側を見るのは初めてで、遠浅の海と草原とが果てしなく続く景色はとてもきれいでした。あれで天気さえ良かったのなら。。。最高の一日でした。

Chef`s Journey through British fishery in Cornwall Vol.4 活けジメを伝えにCornwallへ小旅行その4

(Day 5)

From the early morning, I was once again out on the shore on a boat owned by “P.J” Godfrey, specializing in gill net fishing. Contrary to the day before, the weather was awfully stormy, but the boat just made it way straight to the inshore fishery despite its surprisingly not so modern equipments. Haddock and dogfish were caught in the net which had been set during the night before, unfortunately my target monkfish was nowhere to be seen. 

Back in the Bullus' office, I prepared sashimi out of haddock, mackerel and sole upon request from Naomi’s sister, Emma. Their father Geoff, the chairman of the company, was not very keen on eating raw fish at first, however he seemed to enjoy more than anyone once he tried it, which gave me great pleasure.  

During this trip, I have met more people than I expected who have a similar passion to me and enjoyed uncountable discussions with them about providing quality fish to restaurants. However, by going out with the fisherman and fishing myself I can see how hard it is to consistently use my style and methods.  In time though, with practice and understanding, I do think we can spread the fish preserving method widely enough to actually make an impact. If more fishermen can appreciate the pride in providing the freshest fish to restaurants and diners realize how much better proper fresh fish tastes then it will be worth it.

I really enjoyed this trip, surrounded by beautiful nature and meeting the beautiful people of Cornwall! 

5日目は朝から船長“P.J” Godfrey の操る刺し網専門の中型船に乗せてもらいました。昨日と打って変わって大荒れの天気でしたがその中を決して最新型とは言えないボートは漁場へと向かいました。夜中に仕掛けた網には主にHaddock やDogfish(ﾈｺｻﾞﾒ)がかかり、お目当てのMonk fish（アンコウ）はかかりませんでした。帰りの船の中で＊が魚の処理をする際に改めて活けジメの方法を伝えました。刺身に向くような魚は獲れませんでしたが、それでも始めてのやり方には興味深々のようでした。

事務所に戻ってから、Naomiさんの姉妹である Emmaからのリクエストで釣ってきたHaddock, Mackerel, Soleを刺身にしました。Naomiさんのお父さんであり、会社社長であるGeoffは“生の魚なんていらん！”と言っていたのが一口食べるなりやみつきになったのか皿を抱えるようにして喜んで食べてくれたのは感動的でした！

今回の旅を通じ、多くの釣り人と話しをし、実際に漁を体験してみると、活けジメを普及させるためにはまだまだ多くの課題があることを気付かされると同時に、上手く解決すれば多くの可能性も秘めていると感じることが出来ました。漁師が今まで以上に自分で釣った魚に対する意識を高めていき、何より消費者であるシェフや魚屋が活けジメの魚の有効性を並行して考えることが出来れば、最高の魚が市場に並ぶ日がやってくるように思います。

　素晴らしい大自然と、素晴らしい人々に会うことができ、充実した旅でした。

Chef`s Journey through British fishery in Cornwall Vol.3 活けジメを伝えにCornwallへ小旅行その3

Day 3
After arriving in St Ives late the night before, my plan for the day was to visit the Bernard Leach pottery. I was also joined by a journalist who came all the way from London expressly to cover my activity. I re-visited Ms. Midori, a Japanese ceramist in the renowned atelier, who will be playing a significant role in my ceramic project in the near future. At a lovely hotel-detached restaurant over a hill close by, we had lunch as she shared her interesting and eye-opening insights into the world of ceramic art.


Day 4
By the time the Sun was up, I was already out  mackerel fishing on a boat, thanks to a local fishmonger Ms. Naomi Bullus' kind help in making the arrangement with a fisherman, Boy Jon Stevens. Beautiful weather and the fact that 10kg worth of mackerel had already been caught in the morning round were boosting my expectation, and it did in fact turnout to be an awesome day. The method used in mackerel fishing here is similar to the one adopted in Japan.  The devise uses about 20 strings with bird feathers attached to them, which allows a few dozen mackerel to be caught per stream. The speed and efficiency of fishermen performing each step of the routine was very impressive. I had a go and needless to say, my performance was not comparable to theirs! I promptly demonstrated the same preserving technique on fish we had just caught right there on the boat while the fishermen carefully and eagerly observed. They were impressively quick in getting the hang of it and I couldn’t help but already look forward to the fresher fish we would be receiving from them, back in London.

In the evening, Naomi invited me to join her family and friends for dinner and we headed to the restaurant directly opposite to St. Michael's Mt in Marazion. In the secluded atmosphere of the country, I sincerely enjoyed amazing food and the great company.




三日目。昨晩遅くにSt Ivesに着きました。今日はロンドンからわざわざ私の活動を取材に来てくれたジャーナリストと共に、Bernard Leach Potteryを訪れました。そこで働く陶芸家のMidoriさんと3人で陶芸の話しをしながら、海の見える小高い陸の上にあるホテルレストランで食事をしました。Midoriさんは今後私がしている陶磁器製作のキーパーソンとなり、いろいろとためになる話を聞くことが出来ました。

四日目、既に日が昇った時間からの出航で魚屋のNaomiさんが手配をしてくれたBoyJon Stevensの操るサバの手釣り漁にジャーナリストと共に行きました。Boyjonは朝の漁で既に10kgのサバを釣り上げたとのこと、満々の期待と素晴らしい天気にも恵まれ、最高の一日でした。日本でも使われる鳥の羽のついた20本ほどの釣り針の仕掛けでひと流しごとに数十匹のサバが釣れてきます。手返しの早さはさすがにプロで、私も釣り人根性でやらせてもらいましたが、彼らには到底及びません。 

　釣れた魚をその場で活けジメをして見せましたが、彼も非常に熱心にやり方を見てくれ、何匹かやるうちにコツもつかんだようで今後の魚が楽しみです。

夜にはNaomiさんの家族と、その友人も合流し、MarazionのSt Michael’s Mt真向かいにあるレストランで夕食に招待していただきました。田舎町にありながら、素晴らしい料理で、暖かいBullus家の方々との楽しい会話と共にとても楽しむことが出来ました。

Chef`s Journey through British fishery in Cornwall Vol.2 活けジメを伝えにCornwallへ小旅行その2

                                           



Teaching how to" IKEJIME"



Day 2
I was already out on the shore from early morning on a boat departing from Coverack Bay. After our attempt to rod-fish mackerel failed miserably due to the unfortunate tide movement, we decided to haul in gill nets which had already been set in place the night before. Only one red mullet was netted which was my primary target, but luckily we also caught wrass, pollack and plaice which allowed me to demonstrate a special fish preserving technique mainly used in Japan. To equip local fishermen with this particular technique was one of my original aims of this trip. Willie, a dedicated, passionate and very skilled fisherman, who is also the owner of the boat, comprehended why it is important this is performed by front line fishermen, even through my clumsy English, and promised to continue practicing the method.

After returning to the ground, I watched other local fishermen hauling in nets and whenever I saw chances, demonstrated the same technique in front of them. I was overwhelmed by the interest everyone showed, despite it being a totally unfamiliar method. Dover sole, turbot, gurnard, spider crab, seeing all the fishes preserved almost as fresh as when they were alive was such an achievement. I returned to Dylan & Mutsuko's for dinner, where we had blanched spider crab, home-grown vegetable salad and my impromptu sashimi dish of Dover sole and gurnard. It was a truly supreme, blissful experience! 

二日目早朝、Coverack bay   から、漁師Willieの船で沖に出ました。長髪の似合う男前です。すでに夜中からGill net（刺し網）を仕掛けておいてくれ、まずはサバの手釣りを試みるものの、潮の動きが悪く、思わしくないため、網を上げることをしました。狙っていたRed Mulletは1匹しかかからなかったものの、Wrasse（大きいベラ）やPollack, Place（カレイ）などがかかり、その場で活けジメの方法を伝えました。Willieは非常に熱心な釣り人で魚の扱いも優れており、私のつたない英語力でも活けジメの意味を理解してくれ、今後続けてくれると約束してくれました。

その後陸に戻り、後から戻ってくる漁師の水揚げを見ながら、その他の漁師にも活けｼﾞﾒを伝えました。皆、初めてのことですが非常に関心を持ってくれ、本当に嬉しく感じました。Doversolle やTurbot , Gurnardや SpiderCrubなど、まだ活きているような状態の魚ばかりでした。その後、Dylanと Mutsukoさんのご自宅で夕食となり、茹でたてのSpider Crabと目の前の畑で栽培している野菜のサラダ、即席で私が作ったDoversoleとGurnardの刺身で至福のひと時となりました。

Chef`s Journey through British fishery in Cornwall Vol.1 活けジメを伝えにCornwallへ小旅行その１

It was last year, under the slogan of "Revolution of Fish & Chips", that I began my challenge to improve the quality of  the fish which is used in London’s restaurants, not only for the benefit of Umu, but also to raise the standard of British markets. Since then, I have come across many prospective participants, mainly from the fishing industry, and after many discussions and negotiations I started to get a clearer idea of who I will be working closely with on this project. In order to have more detailed discussions in person with local fishermen in  St. Ives and to experience very privileged arrangements on the fishing boats, I have decided to once again return to the primary location of this challenge, Cornwall.

(Day 1)
Even though I had arrived in Helston exhausted, after a five hour drive in a rented car, I was so excited just to be near the ocean that I could not help myself but to immediately head to the Southernmost point of the peninsula, Lizard. I strolled through the tip of the cape then tried fishing sea bass with my hand-carried rod, unfortunately what I caught in the end were only small pollack. Nevertheless, accompanied by beautiful weather, I enjoyed myself surrounded by the amazing view of the seafront and summer flowers in bloom.

Just past 8 o'clock, I had arrived at my appointment with local fishmongers Dylan & Mutsuko and we made our way to a nearby pub where we discussed about the local fishery situation over dinner. During dinner they told me that only two sea bass had been caught over last few days by canoe fishing and in fact, they were the only sea bass I came across during this entire trip. This has made me rethink the significance of each season and the importance of taking it into consideration when I create seasonal menus.

“Revolution of Fish and Chip”と銘打って、当店で使う魚、布いては英国の市場に出る魚をより良いものにするためにライフワークとして動き出したのは昨年からですが、昨年訪ねたときから多くの漁業関係者と交渉を重ねた上で幾つかの候補が見つかり、改めてCornwall への旅に行ってきました。昨年冬に尋ねたSt Ivesの魚屋さんも幾人かの釣り人をアレンジしてくださり、また、新たにコンタクトを取ることができたHelstonの魚屋さんに卸す手釣り漁師の船にも乗ることが出来、活けじめの方法を教えることが出来ました。

一日目。ロンドンで車を借りて約5時間でHelstonに着きましたが、一刻も早く海が見たいと言う気持ちに駆られ半島の最南端、Lizardに行きました。岬の先端を散策しつつ、手持ちの釣竿でシーバスを狙いましたが、釣ることができたのは小型のPollackだけでした。天気が良く、素晴らしい色の海と咲き乱れる自然の小花を楽しむことが出来ました。

8時を過ぎ、打ち合わせをしていた魚屋さん、DylanとMutsukoさんの家に着き、打ち合わせを兼ねてパブにて食事。現地の漁のことをいろいろ聞くことが出来ました。シーバスはこの数日間でカヌーフィッシングで釣られた2匹のみしかいないということを聞き、その後6日間のCornwall滞在中に見たシーバスはこの二匹だけだったので、いかにシーズンが大切かということ、ＵＭＵのメニュー編成の大切さを感じました。

Revolution of Fish and chips！英国の魚の流通革命

This Photos by Antoinette Bruno StarChefs.com

Time goes by so quickly! It seems like only yesterday that I arrived in the UK when in fact it’s been nearly two years. During this time, I have challenged myself and gained a lot of valuable experience as Umu’s Executive Chef. But my real aspiration, both personally and professionally, has been to improve the quality of the fish we use at Umu and raise the standard of London’s fish markets. I have spent time making direct contact with fishmongers and locals working at the ports. However, after all this time and efforts, I am still nowhere near finding satisfactory solutions to this matter.

I have realised in order to achieve my vision, I have to start right at the beginning and appeal directly to fishermen and fishmongers. By meeting them in person I can hopefully share my passion towards this matter and possibly become a supporter or a collaborator. Unfortunately though I only get a positive and enthusiastic response once in a hundred phone calls or e-mails!

I made the flyer as following to appeal to as many prospective supporters as possible. If you know of anyone, or if you are a fisherman or a fishmonger yourself, and are interested in participating in this project or even just felt my passion, please contact me! I would very much appreciate it.  

　早いもので後2ヶ月で私が英国に来て2年が経ってしまいます。その間にもUMUの料理長として様々なことを経験してきましたが、ライフワークの大きな柱の一つとして、UMUで使う魚のクォリティーを上げるということ、布いては悪名高きロンドンの魚市場全体のレベルを上げるということを漁港を通じ、魚屋を通じて努力してきました。しかし、まだまだ納得いくどころか解決策が見つかりません。

　今は多くの漁師や魚屋に声をかけ、私の情熱が伝わりそうだと感じた相手を直接訪ねています。100件メールや電話をして、1件当たるかどうかという具合です。

漁師さんと話をする上で必要だと思い、手紙を作ってみました。以下がその内容です。

もし、このブログを読んでくれた漁師さん、魚屋さんで私と一緒にこのプロジェクトに参加してくださる方がいらしたらぜひ、ご一報ください！

Revolution of Fish and chips!

What’s in UK!

• The sea is known for its clear water and tasty fish.
• Sold as “fresh fish” according to the delivery date but it is often caught 5-6 days before.
• Many use a system to stock all fish in the same tank on a 3-4 day fishing trip.
• Some chefs even spray air freshener and all sorts of chemicals on old fish or serve it with strongly  flavoured sauce to get rid of the smell
• The fish is sold for a very low price and is poorly treated - disregarding its quality (Line caught sea bass £16 - £30/kg in London)

 What’s in Japan!

• The sea is known for its clear water and tasty fish.
• The circulation system used enables fish to be delivered to the dining table within a day of being caught.
• The system to bring live fish back to the port on a daily basis.
• The chef’s use techniques to prepare a dish that preserves the ingredient’s best qualities.
• The fish is appreciated for its quality and sold accordingly (Line caught sea bass £45 - £50/kg in Tokyo; caught at a special location and processed with unique techniques and then sold within a few hours).

 Although Britain is surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean and the North Sea with world-class, quality fish, the full potential of these fish is currently not being delivered to dining tables.

It is a known fact that various regulations and strict laws make it harder to succeed and the pity is that such precious sources and quality fish are sabotaged by the time it takes to deliverer to the consumers.

London Olympics is just around the corner, it is an unmissable opportunity to introduce Britain’s underlying potential and the true flavour of local fish to the world.

Let’s work together and make a change to the fresh fish industry!  

（英国にあるもの）

＊今日入荷したから新鮮だと言われる５,６日前に獲られた魚

＊舟で数日間沖に出たまま獲れた魚を同じ水槽に積み重ねられるシステム

＊古くなって匂いが出てきた魚に平気で薬品をかけたり、強い味のソースでごまかすシェフ。

＊どこで買ってもそれほど違わないために安い値段で取引される魚（Line caught sea bass   £16-£25/kg at London）

＊美しい水と美味しい魚をたたえる海

（日本にあるもの）

＊獲られてから（殺されてから）料理されるまで１日以内の流通システムと扱う人々の意識

＊毎日活きたうちに港に揚げられる船のシステム

＊最高の状態のまま料理をするシェフの技術

＊鮮度、扱いの違いなどで付加価値が付き、高額で取引される魚(Line caught sea bass £45-£50/kg at Tokyo...Caught at special location and killed with special technic few hours ago)

＊美しい水と美味しい魚をたたえる海

英国を囲む大西洋で泳ぐ魚達は世界に誇れる美味しさです。

しかし現在の状況ではその美味しさを食卓にそのまま届けてはいません。

　様々な法律や規制がそれを難しくしていることは分かっています。しかし、そのためにせっかくの資源、せっかく苦労して獲った魚が消費者の口に入るときには既に古くなっているというのは悔しいことだとは思いませんか？

ロンドンオリンピックを控えた今こそ、英国の魚の真の美味しさを世界に紹介するまたとないチャンスです。

ロンドン髄一の日本料理屋UMUの料理長と組んで英国の鮮魚流通の革命を起こしませんか？

Japanese traditional crafts 日本の伝統工芸品

A little while ago, I had a visit from producers of Japanese traditional tin casting industry of Takaoka city, Toyama prefecture. Since I was a child, I have always been familiar with brass crafts and casting, also I had opportunities to observe art objects made out of tin and other sort of silverish materials for purpose of tea ceremony in Kyoto, however I was not aware that dedicated producers still exists strongly in particular districts where the tradition had continued to be inherited from one generation to the next. 

What appeared from their medium sized luggage were some of their tin and brass collections. Despite their metallic nature, the crafts carried warm calming sensation, and needless to say, wrapped in beautiful form. On the contrary to silverwork’s sharp sophistication, the crafts had almost ceramic-like appeal in their soft figure which I felt was extraordinary. Their softness is in actual touch as well, some of the crafts in fact could be reformed according to owner’s will, benefitting from the special characteristic. I have already started putting my thoughts into how and what purpose should I enjoy this uniqueness and also their strong flow in heat conductivity.

Including from the side of culinary aspect, Japanese culture sometimes lacks in wholesomeness and ability to harmonize with other cultural aspects, due to over concentration on polishing the tiniest detail. This conflict can be seen especially in the mixture of unique Japanese quality and contemporary western society, where simpler furnishing and decorations becoming more and more favoured over detailed designs. Certain Japanese meticulousness sometimes can only be appreciated in certain Japanese environment. The reason why the craft I felt was most appealing out of the samples the producers brought was not the detailed one requires this sort of meticulousness, but rather was the one with beautiful lively outline which embraces the nature of material, could be the fact that now I am in London. 

One of their primary reasons for this visit to London all the way from Japan was due to an honourable request from one of the most renowned restaurant in UK which is famous for its extremely sophisticated and modernized food. The needs for their products in Japan reduce year by year rapidly causing numbers of producers to decreases at the same time. However if the remaining producers continue to pursue creating true crafts as well as answering needs of contemporary world, Japanese traditional industry can exists powerfully and be inherited to next generation, with its significant individuality still at its core. 

先日、富山県高岡市から伝統産業品である“錫鋳物”の生産者の方が訪れました。子供の頃から真鍮工芸品や鋳造品などは身近にあり、京都の茶席などで使われている錫や砂張の工芸美術品に触れる機会もありましたが、現在もその伝統を受け継ぐ産地、生産者があるということは、無知な私には驚きでした。

中型のアタッシュケースの中から出されたのは錫や真鍮で作られた作品の一部でしたが、どれも金属ながら暖か味のある美しいものでした。銀細工の洗練されたシャープな美しさと違い、陶器のような柔らかなフォルムが新鮮でした。実際手に取ると本当に柔らかく、逆にその特性を利用して自在に形を変えられる作品もありました。熱の伝導効率の良さも含め、特性を生かして何かに使う方法を考えるのが楽しみです。

料理もそうですが、日本文化は時としてあまりにも細部のディテールにこだわり過ぎ、肝心な全体像や周りとの調和が難しいものが多くあります。洗練されたシンプルさが多く見られる最近の西洋の調度品や装飾の中においては特にそうで、細密な装飾が美しく見れる環境は日本の空気感あってのもの。今回サンプルを持ってこられたものの中でもひときわ目を引いたのも、熟練の技が要求される細密な作品よりも、素材感がきれいに生きた曲線の美しいものだったのはヨーロッパという土壌だったからかもしれません。

　今回日本からいらしたのも、英国で最も人気があり、非常に斬新な現代的料理を提供しているレストランからの要望もあってとのことでした。日本国内では需要が減り、年々生産者が減っているとのことでしたが、本物を作り続け、時代のニーズを追求し続けることが出来、それをきちんとアピールし続けられれば、日本の伝統産業も少しづつ形を変えながら、大切な部分だけは残しながら受け継いでいくことが出来るのではないかと改めて感じました。