********** Yoshinori Ishii Executive chef of Japanese restaurant UMU in London ******************

------------------ 英国の日本料理店 UMU 総料理長 石井義典 のつれづれなる話 ------------



Friday 11 May 2012

Revolution of Fish and chips!英国の魚の流通革命


This Photos by Antoinette Bruno StarChefs.com
Time goes by so quickly! It seems like only yesterday that I arrived in the UK when in fact it’s been nearly two years. During this time, I have challenged myself and gained a lot of valuable experience as Umu’s Executive Chef. But my real aspiration, both personally and professionally, has been to improve the quality of the fish we use at Umu and raise the standard of London’s fish markets. I have spent time making direct contact with fishmongers and locals working at the ports. However, after all this time and efforts, I am still nowhere near finding satisfactory solutions to this matter.
I have realised in order to achieve my vision, I have to start right at the beginning and appeal directly to fishermen and fishmongers. By meeting them in person I can hopefully share my passion towards this matter and possibly become a supporter or a collaborator. Unfortunately though I only get a positive and enthusiastic response once in a hundred phone calls or e-mails!
I made the flyer as following to appeal to as many prospective supporters as possible. If you know of anyone, or if you are a fisherman or a fishmonger yourself, and are interested in participating in this project or even just felt my passion, please contact me! I would very much appreciate it.  
 早いもので後2ヶ月で私が英国に来て2年が経ってしまいます。その間にもUMUの料理長として様々なことを経験してきましたが、ライフワークの大きな柱の一つとして、UMUで使う魚のクォリティーを上げるということ、布いては悪名高きロンドンの魚市場全体のレベルを上げるということを漁港を通じ、魚屋を通じて努力してきました。しかし、まだまだ納得いくどころか解決策が見つかりません。
 今は多くの漁師や魚屋に声をかけ、私の情熱が伝わりそうだと感じた相手を直接訪ねています。100件メールや電話をして、1件当たるかどうかという具合です。
漁師さんと話をする上で必要だと思い、手紙を作ってみました。以下がその内容です。
もし、このブログを読んでくれた漁師さん、魚屋さんで私と一緒にこのプロジェクトに参加してくださる方がいらしたらぜひ、ご一報ください!

Revolution of Fish and chips!
What’s in UK!
  • The sea is known for its clear water and tasty fish.
  • Sold as “fresh fish” according to the delivery date but it is often caught 5-6 days before.
  • Many use a system to stock all fish in the same tank on a 3-4 day fishing trip.
  • Some chefs even spray air freshener and all sorts of chemicals on old fish or serve it with strongly  flavoured sauce to get rid of the smell
  • The fish is sold for a very low price and is poorly treated - disregarding its quality (Line caught sea bass £16 - £30/kg in London)

 What’s in Japan!
  • The sea is known for its clear water and tasty fish.
  • The circulation system used enables fish to be delivered to the dining table within a day of being caught.
  • The system to bring live fish back to the port on a daily basis.
  • The chef’s use techniques to prepare a dish that preserves the ingredient’s best qualities.
  • The fish is appreciated for its quality and sold accordingly (Line caught sea bass £45 - £50/kg in Tokyo; caught at a special location and processed with unique techniques and then sold within a few hours).

 Although Britain is surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean and the North Sea with world-class, quality fish, the full potential of these fish is currently not being delivered to dining tables.
It is a known fact that various regulations and strict laws make it harder to succeed and the pity is that such precious sources and quality fish are sabotaged by the time it takes to deliverer to the consumers.

London Olympics is just around the corner, it is an unmissable opportunity to introduce Britain’s underlying potential and the true flavour of local fish to the world.

Let’s work together and make a change to the fresh fish industry!  

(英国にあるもの)
*今日入荷したから新鮮だと言われる5,6日前に獲られた魚
*舟で数日間沖に出たまま獲れた魚を同じ水槽に積み重ねられるシステム
*古くなって匂いが出てきた魚に平気で薬品をかけたり、強い味のソースでごまかすシェフ。
*どこで買ってもそれほど違わないために安い値段で取引される魚(Line caught sea bass   £16-£25/kg at London
*美しい水と美味しい魚をたたえる海

(日本にあるもの)
*獲られてから(殺されてから)料理されるまで1日以内の流通システムと扱う人々の意識
*毎日活きたうちに港に揚げられる船のシステム
*最高の状態のまま料理をするシェフの技術
*鮮度、扱いの違いなどで付加価値が付き、高額で取引される魚(Line caught sea bass £45-£50/kg at Tokyo...Caught at special location and killed with special technic few hours ago)
*美しい水と美味しい魚をたたえる海

英国を囲む大西洋で泳ぐ魚達は世界に誇れる美味しさです。
しかし現在の状況ではその美味しさを食卓にそのまま届けてはいません。
 様々な法律や規制がそれを難しくしていることは分かっています。しかし、そのためにせっかくの資源、せっかく苦労して獲った魚が消費者の口に入るときには既に古くなっているというのは悔しいことだとは思いませんか?

ロンドンオリンピックを控えた今こそ、英国の魚の真の美味しさを世界に紹介するまたとないチャンスです。
ロンドン髄一の日本料理屋UMUの料理長と組んで英国の鮮魚流通の革命を起こしませんか?