********** Yoshinori Ishii Executive chef of Japanese restaurant UMU in London ******************

------------------ 英国の日本料理店 UMU 総料理長 石井義典 のつれづれなる話 ------------



Wednesday 4 September 2013

Robb Report Culinary Masters competition Vol.2


Vol.2 Menu 

(Amuse bouche) 

“3 city style of sushi bite size” 
Rock crab zucchini
Seared toro with Japanese herbs
Sockeye Salmon Temari with plum sauce, white asparagus 

3 varieties of sushi as amuse bouche, prepared by Mark who accompanied me all the way from London. Types of Sushi comprised a variation of Edo-style classic sushi, an inspiration that came from Kyoto’s specialty Temari-sushi and a contemporary original from Umu, London. All served in a bite-size to be enjoyed along with cocktails.
 

(Fruits of Summer Sea) 

“Kaiyose-nuta” 
Santa Barbara sea urchin with grilled eggplant mousse, umadashi jelly
Abalone, mirugai (geoduck), scallop, botan-ebi, fresh almond,
Miso mustard sauce, egg sauce, chive oil, corn-flower 

1st course for the sit-down dinner was “Fruit of the Summer Sea”, a dish derived from “Nuta” – a Japanese dish with vinegar and miso seasoning. White miso & citrus-based “Karashi-su-miso” sauce (mixture of mustard, vinegar and miso) and chive oil were arranged on a plate with a collection of shellfish to complement each other. Slow-steamed abalone, blanched scallop, botan shrimp that lightly marinated in sake and bonito, and fresh Geoduck clam – a range of shellfish used and the cooking method applied on each ingredient altogether added diversity to the plate. Sea urchin was served with grilled aubergine & chick pea puree to create a harmony of sweetness and bitterness. 
 

(Sashimi) 

“Usuzukuri” of fluke with chirizu 
(Message from Chef Yoshi in his own woodblock print)
“Billions of People, from Hundreds of Countries,
be Happy together, with one Delicious Dish”
 

Circumstances, such as the dinner being held at a hotel, restricted Japanese tableware from being an option as a part of presentation, and yet I bore a strong desire to challenge myself in preparing a 60 serving “Usuzukuri” (thinly sliced sashimi) plate. Consequently I came to a decision to handcraft a woodblock print, as my first trial ever, with a message that would be made visible through a glass plate. A Japanese culinary culture to enjoy polychromatic artworks of crockery through freshly preserved and thinly sliced fluke that coincides with the concept of transparency; Japanese traditional techniques in woodblock print and handcrafting a paper; with these techniques, my message was written to the world, and upon which example of Japanese culinary art was presented; and most of all, a delight combination of perfectly chilled, transparent sashimi and refreshing lime-based sauce “chirizu”; all of the above were compiled and concentrated within what was offered on the single glass plate.

The idea of this particular dish I developed immediately after I’d received the nomination has come to an actual form after months worth of preparation for the woodblock print and a profound search for a local fisherman who would provide a fresh fluke that could be kept alive up until the dinner. This plate became the one that most strongly connected to my heart.  


(Fish) 

“Shichimi-yaki” 
Maine lobster, tofu bisque, yuzu foam 

3rd course was an original dish from Umu, and also a devoir to MORIMOTO’s signature dish Lobster Epise – “Lobster Shichimi-yaki with tofu bisque”. Blue lobster from Cornwall or Scotland is typically the main ingredient for the dish at Umu, however red lobster from Maine State was used instead for this particular dinner. Lobster meat from tails and claws was heaped, after grilled in high temperature until crispy on outside, upon bisque that was created from a mixture of corail sauce, tofu and thick stock from shells. The dish is accented with home-blended shichimi, buttery scent and yuzu foam.
 

(Meat) 

“Wagyu beef” 
Mushroom rice, farmer’s market bouquet
Demiglace wasabi soy sauce, mushroom sauce 

4th course centered on a proud specialty of Japan, Wagyu beef. On the side were a variety of mushrooms I acquired at Farmers Market in Santa Monica, and a bouquet of vegetables, the idea that came to my mind right there at the market. Topped with a wasabi sauce, prepared over 6 days period since we had landed.  
 

(Dessert) 

“Beverly Hills’ Garden” 
“Charamisu”
Green tea, Ginjyo-sake 

Finally, “Beverly Hills’ Garden”, a piece from my playful mind offered as 5th and the final course. The venue was the terrace area of the Beverly Wilshire Hotel, a landmark-like building located at the entrance of the Rodeo Drive, and my plan was to create a setting for the guests to enjoy doing a little “gardening” at their tables. Umu’s signature dessert “Charamisu”, flavoured with matcha green tea and Daiginjo sake, was “planted” in a flowerpot and garnished with edible flowers. To finish, guests “water” the flowerpot with white peach-infused Daiginjo sake from a miniature watering can.


 

Vol.2 Menu
 

(Amuse bouche) 

 “3city style of Sushi bite size” 
Rock Crab zucchini
Seared toro with Japanese herbs
Sockeye Salmon Temari with plum sauce, white asparagus
 
 

アミューズブッシュは寿司3種。ロンドンから付いてきてくれたMarkの出番です。江戸前寿司をアレンジしたもの、京都の手毬寿司をアレンジしたもの、そしてロンドンのUMUオリジナルのもの。カクテルと一緒に一口サイズで楽しんでいただきました。 

( Fruits of Summer Sea) 

“Kaiyose-nuta” 
Santa Barbara sea urchin with grilled eggplant mousse, umadashi jelly
Abalone, Mirugai (geoduck), Scallop, Botan-ebi, Fresh almond,
Miso mustard sauce, egg sauce, chive oil, corn-flower
着席後、一皿目は“海のフルーツ”。日本料理の“ぬた”を私流にアレンジしたもので白みそと柑橘ベースの辛子酢味噌とチャイブオイルで様々な甲殻類を楽しんでもらう皿です。調理法も長時間蒸した鮑、さっとあぶった帆立、酒と昆布で短時間マリネしたボタンエビ、生のままのミル貝とバラエティーをもたせました。さらにウニは焼き茄子とひよこ豆のピュレの苦みと甘みを一緒に楽しんでもらえるように仕上げました。

(Sashimi) 

“Usuzukuri” of fluke with chirizu 
 (Message from Chef Yoshi in his own wood-Block print)
 “Billions of people, Hundreds of countries, Happy together, with delicious foods”
ホテルでの料理ということもあり、和食器は全く使えないことは前もってわかっており、それでいて二皿目は60人前の薄造りを提供することをチャレンジしたいという思いも強く、今回初めての試みで版画でメッセージカードを自作し、ガラス板を通してメッセージが見られるようにしてみました。活け〆のヒラメの薄造りを通して食器の色絵を楽しむ“透ける”という日本文化、日本版画と手摺和紙の技術、そこに書いた世界に向けたメッセージと日本料理技術、そして何より、きりっと冷えて透き通った極上の身をさっぱりとしたライムベースのちり酢楽しんでもらうという全てを凝縮させた一皿です。オファーをもらってから真っ先に思いついたことでしたので2カ月をかけて版画を摺り、ぎりぎりまで生きたヒラメを提供してくれる現地の釣り師を探してやっと実現した一皿でした。私の中ではもっとも思い入れが強い皿となりました。

(Fish)

“Shichimi-yaki”
Main lobster, tofu bisque, yuzu foam 
三皿目はUMUのオリジナル料理でもあり、MORIMOTOのシグニチャーディッシュであるLobster Episeに敬意を表した料理でもある“ Lobsterの七味焼き、豆腐ビスク”。UMUではCornwallやスコットランド産の青ロブスターを使っていますが、アメリカではメイン州の赤ロブスターを使いました。殻から取った濃厚な出汁と、コライユ、豆腐を合わせたビスクを敷いた上に中がほんのりあたたかく、外はパリッと高温で焼き上げた尾とハサミの身を盛り、自家製ブレンドの七味とバターの香り、柚子の泡でアクセントをつけました。 

(Meat) 

“Japanese Wagyu beef” 
Mushroom rice, farmer’s market bouquet
Demiglace wasabi soy sauce, mushroom sauce
 
四皿目は日本が誇る和牛。サンタモニカのファーマーズマーケットで見つけたキノコいろいろとそこでイメージした野菜の花束、到着から六日間かけて作った山葵ソースを盛りつけました。 

(Dessert) 

 Field of Beverly Hills  
“Charamisu”
 green tea, ginjyo-sake 
五皿目は私のちょっとしたジョーク、“ビバリーヒルズの花壇”。会場のホテルはロデオドライブの起点、ランドマーク的なホテルでそのテラスが会場ということもあり、テーブルの上でガーデニングを楽しんでもらおうという趣向です。UMUでも定番となっている抹茶と大吟醸酒で仕立てた“チャラミス”を植木鉢の中で造り、その上に花を飾って上から白桃の香りをつけた大吟醸酒をジョウロでかけてもらうという楽しいものでした。

 

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