********** Yoshinori Ishii Executive chef of Japanese restaurant UMU in London ******************

------------------ 英国の日本料理店 UMU 総料理長 石井義典 のつれづれなる話 ------------

Thursday, 12 January 2012

Freshest fish in Cornwall 鮮魚流通経路の開拓

The fish that circulate in London markets are dominated by those caught in the EU  with very few exception, hence variety is very limited unlike in Japan. In addition dissimilarity of fisherman’s opinions and problematic distribution channel make purchasing quality fish even harder. Nonetheless, it has been my goal to overcome these difficulties by visiting ports and challenging current distribution system, and finally, despite the craziness of the Christmas season, I found some time to visit the port of Newlyn, with a guide from a local fishmonger in  St. Ives, Cornwall. 

I would like to say special thanks to Ms. Naomi who guided me through the port and provided me with all the valuable information, from diversity of methods in fishing to each fisherman’s character, I was amazed by how knowledgeable she was. The owner of the fishmonger, Ms. Naomi’s father, was away on hunting so I could not have the honour to meet, however with their advantage of owning fishing boats and their knowledgeable back grounds, I have no doubt they’ll be great help in creating new route of distribution in near future. My dream of serving fish on the same day of unload seems not only dream anymore. 
Needless to say, the freshness and quality of the fish at the port are incomparable to the ones found at the markets in London, however still some are already few days old by the time they are unloaded from the ship. In order to be persistent on the freshness, smaller-scaled ship which returns to the port on same day seems to be only option that meets my expectation.

ロンドンで手に入る魚はEU内で獲られたものと、極わずかな例外に限定されます。そのために日本のように多種多様というわけにもいかず、また、漁師の意識、流通経路などの問題で日本のような魚は望むことは出来ません。それでもよりよい魚を求めるために各地の漁港を訪ねることは以前から自分への課題にしてきましたが、ようやくきっかけがつかめ、クリスマスシーズンの忙しさの中で時間を作り、コーンウォールの先端、St. Ives(セントアイビス)に行ってきました。そこにある魚屋さんに案内を受け、半島の南側にあるNewlynの漁港を見てきました。

1 comment:

  1. 先日、新鮮なウニの記事を読んでイギリスの魚介類はスイスと比べ豊富そうに見えました。でも日本と比べると種類、漁師の意識などやはり大きく違うのですね。